265 BFG chunkies (75 profile, I think) on white 8-spokes here. They're huge and ridiculously heavy. I've got 225/75 road-biased winters on the way to go onto Disco steels. The 265s are borderline as to whether they stick beyond the standard arches - which is why somebody's put plastic lips on...

A slightly odd, but probably very straightforward question tonight... I've got all the brakes buttoned back up, and all seem to be happy. BUT... the rears are a bit over-enthusiastic when you turn the wheel backwards. They'll go, at most, half a rotation, then they stop. Most of the time, they...

Going back to the original question, I don't think I'd bother trying to get EVERYTHING ordered at once. As you strip, you're going to find stuff that needs replacing that's purely incidental - but you can get at more easily. So, as you go, just keep a list and get orders in relatively...

Not the only solution. There's also...

<grin> I've replumbed the TLS to put the nipple at the top, solely for access (I was very tempted to hunt the bugger who designed those backplates down with an angle grinder), and taken great care to make sure that both cylinders exit at the slightly higher of the two ports. Blimey, that lower...

'tis in. I did some more reading, and found somebody suggesting using the outer drive flange as a drift - sho' nuff, it fits the seal PERFECTLY. Well, it would - inner and outer bearings same size, etc...? Sit the seal in, sit the flange on, tippettytappety with a sensible sized hammer, check...

<grin> You're probably not wrong... I'll give this one a shot, then Corteco it is.

It seems to be so! (Blue bag apart...) Definitely! <grin> At least, it's going in the same way as the one that was in there was sat... 40k miles on the Landy, and sat for 14 of the last 16 years, so I strongly suspect it was the original. It is 3511, yes. LAND ROVER SERIES 2 & 3 - Hub...

Bit of wood and a ****ting stick was how I killed the last one... I shall have another crack in the AM.

Having taken one rear hub apart to see why the brakes were covered in goop and oil, it looked very like the oil seal was a bit weary. Eventually, I got the old one out - I've definitely got the equal-size inner and outer bearings, later 1980 88". So the first attempt to put a new seal back in...

Before you connect a battery, wrap the connector to the alternator with some electrical tape - the main terminal is unfused and permanently live between battery +ve and alternator, and if it contacts an earth you're going to make a mess of the loom.

So if _BIG_ normal tyres are ~32" diameter, you'd be wanting at least double that just to lift the hubs not-quite-3ft above the ground... Top of the tyres probably nearer 7ft to get 3ft of ground clearance above the bottom of the diff. Don't forget your stepladder! But, really, this is...

The Disco steels I mentioned above are 7". One of them currently has an aged 235/70 on, and it looks perfectly decent, but wouldn't hurt with a bit more diameter. I don't want to go OTT, though. I'm looking hard at 225/75 - there seems to be a decent choice of road-biased rubber for sensible...

So - rear hub seals... All very wet and oily around the back of the hub. So the whole hub's going to have to come out, right. And this is a mid '80 vehicle. Of course, that's when they changed the parts... So how do I tell which kit I need before dismantling? If I've got the "Post-June '80"...

So that's as far as I can get without yet more bits... One rear back together fully (cylinder utterly seized, of course, barely rotated by hand, and hammer needed to remove drum), other rear (rotated freely, hammer still needed to remove drum, but cylinder seized) needs the oil leak from the...

Aha! So 11" TLS would be "LWB four-pot", right? The smaller, silver, snail certainly matched what was on there, rather than the larger, black, snail.

No big red light there on my '80 petrol 88"... Charge and choke are marked up in the bottom of the dials. Rear fog is on the left side of the instruments. I've got no brake fluid level warning - nothing in the master lid. If you've got a float there, it's probably that.

...and FINALLY work actually starts on the brakes. (I only had to build the garage first!) So one front corner is fully apart, surprisingly easily. Almost. Both wheel cylinders (11" TLS) seized solid, both snail cams rounded, flexi's seen better days, brake pipe from flexi to upper cylinder...

60mph is about where the effects of aerodynamics start to really show up.

"Modern plastic rubbish"... How much and which way? The 88 currently has a set of chuffin' gurt big white 8spokes on, shod with big chunkies. There are hard plastic arch lips in place. It's on parabolics, and seems to sit a little higher.