I dont rate the clutch claws thay can be beaten. As they say a good alarm/imobilizer will stop most thieves, but if they want to steal it they can. cos tbh it is a piece of **** to bypass a cat 1 imobilizer on an older defender (TDI) A tracker will get it recovered but the thieves are getting...

Make sure you buy an isolator rated to match your winch, Some winches can draw in excess of 400 amps continuosly, I would be wanting 60mm square cable which is rated around 415 amps. Dont forget to get P clips to attache the cables to the chassis, Thats what i used on mine, The wireless remotes...

I put a pair of unbranded ones on the rear of my 300TDI 90 a couple of years ago, they are still working like new, Pistons ant corroded and neither are the calipers and thats saying something as i like to use my 90 hard off road. I have just bought a pair of unbranded ones for the front as the...

lower link... front nut 176 nm or 131 lb ft pivot bolt 176 nm or 131 lb ft Uper link... Mounting bracket bolts 47nm or 35 lb ft Ball joint bracket bolts 176 nm or 131 lb ft Pivot bolt 176 nm or 131 lb ft Upper link ball joint nut 176 nm or 131 lbft

I thought you would know it was 50mm square. I agree it is a bad word to crimp, i soldered the ring terminals on and covered with heat shrink

Its not 50mm wide, It has a OD of approx 13.3 mm. From what im reading it is only good for approx 345 amps. Personally i would go heavier. I have the 60mm square (which is approx 14.5 mmm OD) and is good for approx 415 amps. You can buy the cables from here ...VWP - battery cables

I have had the scoops on a few of my landy's/ yes they do make a difference. They force a lot more air in, I prefer the ones paddocks sell, the tall black ones with the grill they let more air in than the Fancy stainless steel ones

I got my longer cables of of ebay think they were about £30 including delivery.

To get the best out of the winch DO NOT CONNECT TO THE STARTER. Buy longer cables and take the + and the earth to the battery. depending on the horse power of your winch it can draw in excess of 400amps the cable going to your starter wont handle this. Run the earth back tot he battery terminal...

The mod that LRO is showing i something to do with changing the return spring and bushes. Havent read it all yet, but it was delivered to me the day before i mentioned it. If you are stuck i can scan and email it you

i prefer to use genuine land rover seals. As for the hub cap I prefer the heavy duty drive flanges as they have a tight screw cap instead of a ****ty plastic cap that gets bashed off when you play in the mud.

Has the stub axle got a grove worn in it ? Are you fitting genuine seals ? some of the aftermarket ones are ****.

The fibreglass ones are hard. but they dont sag the lasalle ones seem good quality but personally i dont fancey paying the price, I am going to sort my headlining with some fibreglass and recover it in grey accoustic carpet

Mines sit behind the recovery points

In sure you can order it from there website. I can scan and email it if required

I have the CAT 1 alarm and immobilizer fitted, Mostly for peace of mind and because i have tools in it . My tool cover policy insists that i have a cat 1 alarm fitted. My Citroen C1 never had anything fitted to it as standard when i bought it new. So i had the same alarm and immobilizer fitted...

One of the steering box bolts attach it to the chassis

There is a how to guid in this monts LRO on softening the clutch pedal, suppose to be a approved mod

The lazy tongs are the best, sometimes when using the hand one when the rivet break the whole lot moves have seen a few scratched paint jobs cause of them

Personally i dont like th bar type steering gaurd. The one you have look like what i have on my defender. How is it not fitting ? wont it go over the chassi rails ? or are the holes not lining up ??