i had a mate a few years ago who when he bought his first and only landy a disco decided to put it to the main dealer for a interim service.... he shat himself when they want just over £750 i was laughing away. ended up he got an oil and filter change done at kwik fit and sold it the following year

It depends on what was done. Was the gearbox/transfer box/diffs/swivels oil level checked ? topped up ? replaced ? did they use full synthetic oil ? part synthetic oil ? remember it takes about 6 1/2 liters of oil. Was it genuine landrover air/oil/diesel filter ? Did they check adjust the wheel...

I would check the fuse first, then the earth as the hazzard switch has a pernament live supply to it, your indicators have a switch live and im sure its from a different fuse

You will need a multimeter to check which wires are which on your landy. You will need an earth(0 volts) , a live (+12 volts) and a switched live(+12 volts) The switch live is usually optional it will just turn the stereo off when you turn the key to the off position. As for just using it...

i thought of the same upgrade before,There is a 100amp alternator for the 300tdi engine which ,is a straight fit, you have to upgrade the wiring as well. I personally decided against it as you really dont need a higher out put alternator for a diesel defender. I run two winches worklights...

I had the same problem when i had my 110CSW Yes the springs were feecked, so replaced them and the dampers, still leaned so i fitted a drivers side to the passenger side and it straightened up. Also worth checking if you have the leveling unit that it is not feecked and the ball joints move...

Admiral do a multi car policy for any car at the same address so she could be the only named driver and still get it cheaper

Do not use a standard towball for off road recovery it is bloody dangerous. They are not designed to handle the forces involved recovering a well stuck landy. Apart from that slings etc slip off. Google it and you will see all of the horror pics when they snap and fly through the air. Most guys...

the TD i had was powerfull enough but within 90k of replacing the pistons etc (full bottom end rebuild) it cracked 3 pistons. I stuck another TD engine in (going back a few years before the 200tdi was a cheap option) a few years later it cracked its pistons as well. Now im running 98 300TDI 90...

I have made repair section from 1.6mm hot rolled steel plate in the past for 110csw. There are also loads of repair pannels avaliable from DEFENDER PARTS - YRM Metal Solutions Ltd

check ebay but most of the time they are overpriced junk. Good second hand doors are rare so it is either down the road of buying new ones or repairing what you've got. Door skins are only about £80 and there are repair sections available for the bottom for about a tenner. The doors are quiet...

the original sills are approx 1mm aluminum, better of replacing them with rock / tree sliders

yeah i made a mistake it is toe IN the reason the wheel distance is longer at the rear is allegedly to aid in the steering returning to centre after turning a corner.

Well i dont find they wear to quickly, and as i said driving a landy like a sports car swb arnt the best for going around corners fast even in when dry

My 300 tdi 90 has over 180K miles on it and still runs a treat, but obviously things are starting to get old and tired, watch out for over heating, leaking p gaskets and blue smoke from the engine. Then its down to the usually rust issue and knackered bushes. Make sure it is a genuine CSW some...

A D reg isnt a factory fit 200TDI it was the NA or the TD up till an H plate. If it is a conversion and is done properly and most important looks good then it should be ok. A new steering box,drop arm and track rod ends arnt expensive or difficult to fit, Would be worth while changing the damper...

I have the numax batteries fitted under the seat in my 300tdi 90 i also use the x eng split charge system. There is also room in there for an aux fuse box as well.

300tdi are adjust at the rear of the the hand brake lever and at the shoes, older ones like the TD were adjusted just above the drum

i run 235/85/16 insa saharas on my 98 300TDI 90, They raise the 90 by about an inch or so and do fill the wheel arches a lot better. I find they preform very well in the scottish mud,clay and general crap also find them good int he snow. Havent had any scary moments in the rain with them after...

We use to disconnect the alternators, a few time the diodes have fffed up. Now i dont disconnect anything i use the battery surge protectors that way every thing is protected and you dont have to find the code for the radios. I am sure draper do one for about £20