They have different firmware or maps. It's best to use a TD4 ECU for a TD4 gearbox. There are far more TD4 ECUs around than V6 ones. You can tell by decoding the VIN number on the ECU (paper sticker in your photo starting SALLNABE).

Ron is a top bloke. Read his story here Edit. I can't link to him because this forum won't allow me to link to autosxxxxe You have to google for this phrase "Tales of a new business, trials and endless uphill battles by Jikovron" Edit2: He has a website of his own...

Fitted to the block. The idea is that the disc on the end of the fake crank is a near interference fit in the bell housing. I can now make an adapter plate from 6mm steel plate and the fake crank forces the centre line of the gearbox to line up with the centre line of the engine:-

machining a fake K series crankshaft

Jatco bellhousing on the milling machine:-

V6 Torque Converter with 1.8 trigger wheel:-

This week I spent a day with Ron at Reeds' Retro Motorworks in Whatstandwell. 1st job he cut the K series trigger wheel off of an old Rover 75 dual mass flywheel:- Apparently it was quite hard to do because the hardness of the metal varied because it had been welded in places and also due to...

no I think there's only 21

There are 21 bolts. 20 are obvious, the 21st is on the other side of the join:-

I'm struggling to split the bellhousing from the case. The instructions say to remove 22 bolts but I can only find 20. It seems very firmly stuck down as well. Am I supposed to do anything else other than remove those 20 and split it?

Can anyone recommend where to buy a heavy duty reverse band please?

My Jatco is taken from an earlyish (I think 2003) low mileage V6 that died due to head gasket failure. From memory the seller told me 30,000 miles. The bodyshell was the least rusty one that I've ever seen so I think it was the truth.

I have to split my V6 Jatco gearbox so that I can get the casing milled to fit my project. Whilst the gearbox is apart should I be changing this reverse band as a precaution? Any other parts that should be changed whilst I'm in there? Is there a gasket between the halves of the gearbox? thanks

actually, according to Haynes the front diff is inside the IRD. I just can't see what sets the final drive ratio

I'm pretty sure I'm right. I assembled it yesterday with the flexplate. When I put the torque converter bolts in it pulled the torque converter up, back out of the transmission, perfectly centering the trigger wheel on the crank sensor centre line:- I'm certain that this is how it's...

that means that I didn't explain it very well. 1. V6 bell housing means a V6 starter motor and that means a V6 flex plate. Moving the starter isn't an option because the it's already as close to the torque converter as it can be. 2. The correct flexplate / torque converter / gearbox clearance...

I did some more "dimensioning" today. This is the crank sensor trigger teeth on the torque convert viewed through the hole where the hall effect sensor goes:- You can see that it isn't centred in the hole, and that confirms that the torque converter is designed to sit out of the gearbox about...

There is a centre spigot on the torque converter:- I could weld something to a normal manual flywheel (I have a spare) and get it machined to line up with the that centre spigot to line it up, but there is a fair but of play on the torque converter location into the gearbox, so that's a challenge.

yes I'm a bit worried how I make a converter plate accurately enough that the centre of the crank lines up with the centre of the gearbox input shaft. I'm almost tempted to not try and make the tolerances tight, but instead just wiggle it around to see the limits of movement and then torque the...

I've been reading about how much end float the torque converter should have on the gearbox. Apparently this is called "setback". Basically we don't want the torque converter full pushed home on the splines when it's installed, but it should be pulled back a bit to allow the torque converter to...