I forgot to mention that when the O2 sensors were replaced so were plugs and leads (OEM) and the MAF (OEM). Which is why it's a bit bizarre to me.

I just read off what it said on Hawkeye. No idea what it means. What is happening though, is it is like it's bogging down when accelerating in 1st and 2nd. My initial worry was the engine but now I'm worried if it's the gearbox. Right now I have no ability or time to sort it so it'll just have...

Ishould also saythe O2 sensors were both replaced about 2 years ago-ish.

G'day folks. The engine seemed to me be running a bit weird, especially when in 1st/2nd. So I connected Hawkeye and on the live data section it is saying there isn't a misfire but the engine is running rough on all 8 cylinders. I read the fault codes; P0155 P0135 P0134 P1590 which must have...

I was going to go out and remove the drivers seat but the weather told me I wasn't. So I haven't.

Yep I agree. 6% must be the new 0%. I know as we age our eyesight does deteriorate however, when I got my 22 year old son to see it he said that they were indeed off. I think we may have found a, not a lie, but more of an error. :D

Honestly I don't know but whatever setting it is called, right now the lights are off. What I'll do next time I take the IC out I'll see if I can apply 12v to the circuit and see if it illuminates then. If not, well the board is screwed. If it does, then it's on with the plan of checking...

If you're reading it wrong then I am also reading it wrong. Because that was my exact take on it too. Cheers for looking into it for me. I'll check all of those connections, both ends, see where it's all at there, then, if there are no issues there it really only points to one place, as far as...

What about it? The likelihood of two random indicator stalks being faulty is slim to non. So that clearly rules that out. So it's either the wiring from the dimmer on the stalk to the instrument cluster or there is a problem on the circuit board of the IC. I'll be able to test the continuity of...

I'll try that while it's out of the car. I've also checked to make sure all of the pins are located properly because it did cross my mind yesterday. That was a fun job............it wasn't really.

Brand new fuse box and fuses. Also tested all of the relays and they're all good. The fuse box under the driver seat is a 10amp fuse for the whole dash, not just the instrument cluster. This is why there is still power to the IC. So that says to me the problem is at the IC and nowhere else...

That's what I am thinking because power is definitely getting to the instruments and the ground must be good as well. But another thought is perhaps the circuit board solder is rooted for working the cluster lights.

How about frickin no ;):D:D

Thanks That was a concern I had and I did mean to ask if that would happen. I seem to be making some headway with the schematics. I have RAVE in different PDFs and prints of schematics and connectors strewn across my desk while I'm talking it through with my wife. It's always fun to do that...

What's a DVM? I've worked out power & ground for the instrument lights so I'm going to pull that from the car today and test them. Hopefully that works which will mean (if I remember correctly) that there is a break in the wire somewhere. I don't know, I'll test for continuity on each wire all...

Which is where the Nanocom would be better because even though I can trigger the lights it doesn't tell me where the fault is. I'm wondering if it's possible to put it on the bench, apply 12v to whichever pin it is for the lights. I'm going to try and follow the train line in RAVE to see if I...

Today we went and bought a 2ndhand indicator stalk. We removed the trim to remove and replace the original one. Plugged it in, reconnected the battery and tried it.........nothing. Still no instrument lights on. So we removed the cluster again to make sure everything everywhere was plugged in...

I did this to mine last week and the oil came pouring out. I mean gushing! It's fair to say it was overfilled by the useless mechanic. Never again.

Either way I am going to replace it. I had a little bit of a win just now in that the clutch on the compressor does operate when I apply 12v direct to it but I think it may need a bearing kit for it, that's if one is available. I haven't even begun to look yet. Cheers to everyone for the help...

That is what this P38 Rangie loving aircon bloke I met yesterday said. I'm going to save to get OEM. IIRC it was about £150-ish. Although, I've only given it a cursory look at the moment. I'll delve into it deeper another time.