I used skateboard grip tape on mine... seems to do the job and has been on there almost a year now!

As usual, now i've learned something I'm keen to share it, so I'm blogging my rotary coupler photos! Can anyone confirm that YRC100350 is compatible with the following vehicles: • Discovery 1 (300Tdi and V8) from 1994-1998 (from VIN WA762769) • Discovery 2 (Td5 and V8) from...

Right, for those who are interested, some pics!!!!! Basically, I took apart the old, broken rotary coupler to see how they are designed and put together. Here's the airbag plug that connects down inside the dashboard... You can see two "clips" on the inside, against the pins...

No problem - I wonder in which year the SRS system changed over then... if the older Disco 1 needs manually resetting with the diagnostics, but the newer Disco 1 resets automaticaly it'd be interesting to know which year they changed...

SRS light fixed!! This does not appear to be true for mine after all... I have a '97 Disco 300Tdi auto ES. The local garage and I replaced the rotary coupler today (for a fee of £20 including coffee, and use of his grease gun), started the engine and the SRS light went out by itself! :)...

I know it's the coupler because I crunched the old one which made the light come on. I replaced it with another from a scrappy and that didn't fix it. Garage then investigated and traced the fault to the coupler. Also, does Hawkeye do SRS light on a Disco 1?? I thought it only did Disco II...

Right - new plan!! Either me or my local garage (with no diagnostics computer) is going to fit this one for me again and I will then try to get a cheap garage to reset the light. If they cannot reset the light, I will take it to the more expensive garage to get them to reset the light...

OK... well I think i'll give it to the garage and ask them to fit it and reset the light. if it does not reset the light, I guess i'll need a new airbag... very unlikely though (I hope).

hmm... so basically both pins are electrically connected both other pins, right? I know the horn and cruise control wires are fine. A different garage has said that this should not be the case and my coupler is knackered... tough choice now!

fantastic - thank you so much for this! i wouldn't be bothering with this if the MOT rules hadn't changed! i'm on my third coupler now, and knowing if this is broken or not before ordering my fourth one would be great... I look forward to your results!!

that's odd because every rotary coupler i've had will not rotate while out of the wheel unless you push in the locking pin... It does explain how to re-center it - you have to push in the locking pin and go all the way anti-clockwise and then 2.5 turns to the right and then let the locking...

What Rave says about removing the rotary coupler (apart from how to remove the plastic cowlings etc...) is: 1. Disconnect battery (did not bother). 2. Remove steering wheel. 3. Disconnect rotary coupler multiplug from steering column harness. 4. Place adhesive tape around moulding in...

well, my rotary coupler has a 7 pin (I think it's 7...) for the horn and cruise control, and a separate 2 pin for the airbag.

what do shorting bars look like? which plug are they in? as for £66, that is the garage's minimum charge basically, and no other garage near me (even the local indy Land Rover garages) is unable to reset these lights - their computers don't think my car has an airbag, so cannot reset the...

OK, so my last question - is there any way I can test this rotary coupler without having to fit it and hand my car over to the garage for £66?

bugger... this means I basically have to fit it and then pay my garage to try and reset the light (they charge £66 and no other garage near me is able to do it). How can I test this coupler while it is off the vehicle?

ok, so rotary couplers are fragile, short circuits in them are frequent, but I might be seeing this result from my multimeter simply because of the shorting bars inside it? Does this mean that the circuit diagram is correct (i.e. they are separate wires), but due to these shorting bars I am...

OK, here's what it's like: PIN-A----------------------------------------PIN-A PIN-B----------------------------------------PIN-B Touch "Left PIN-A" and "Right PIN-A" with multimeter. Makes noise. Resistance is 0.08 ohms (I think I put the decimal in the right place). Touch "Left PIN-A"...

Well, the only reason I could think of having two pins at each end, with them both combined into one single "wire" is that if one splits or breaks, there's another available, so a bit like a failsafe. The diagram suggests this is rubbish though, and so do you, so I think this is another...

Tempting... trouble is, my local garage said both pins are supposed to have continuity with the other two pins. He says the coupler is fine and this is how they're designed. I don't know what to believe now! This one could be fine, but maybe not. The circuit diagram suggests they're two...