ok... you said "remove drive member and have a look". I assume this is the drive member here: If I remove this "cover", are you saying the wheel should spin freely with no binding whatsoever? And if that is the case, does that mean that the wheel bearings are fine and it could just...

Also, should I just not drive it for a couple of hundred miles and see if they stop getting hot? Remember - i'm no expert here - I've attempted wheel bearing adjustment myself in the past and screwed it up several times despite it not being rocket science.

What would I be having a look for exactly? And I'll have to learn what the "drive member" actually is first too. I also supplied the parts to the garage, including 1 sachet of "wheel bearing grease" for each pair of wheel bearings as per the Paddocks wheel bearing kit.

good, good :D I'll let the pads bed in a bit then. With brand new discs and brand new pads, the pistons are going to be right back as far as they can go, so the pads will break in pretty quickly and raise a lot of heat I guess! I do trust the garage that has done this work, but was a bit...

the two parts that I felt were the discs, which were hot, and the "drive flange cover" or whatever it's called on the end of the axle (seen below), which was also hot. The wheel itself was cold. I will jack it up at the weekend and try to see if it's all still binding. So am I right...

I just had all four wheels bearings (8 bearings in total, of course) replaced with brand new Timken bearings by the local indy Land Rover garage. After picking up the vehicle, I drove 8 miles home at around 60mph. When I got home, I held my hand against the cover that goes on the end of...

I didn't know RUF000020 was the wheel studs! I asked to be quoted for: 20x bolts to replace the ones currently holding the hub cover on (seen here) 20x bolts for securing discs to hubs 20x bolts for securing hubs to axle - these were then quoted as RUF000020. Will I need different...

greenstuff is nice, but a bit too expensive for me, and my insurance company said it'd come up as another modification as "uprated brakes" if I used those. I've already bought the discs and pads anyway. I am about to buy the following from Paddocks: - 8x STC4382G - Bearings (£7.00 + vat...

Thanks again for the advice... I have always liked EBC anyway, so have already bought these: 1x Standard Discs - Rear EBC Brakes (kit for 2 wheels) - £56.50 1x Ultimax Brake Pads - Rear EBC Brakes (kit for 2 wheels) - £17.63 1x Ultimax Brake Pads - Front EBC Brakes (kit for 2 wheels) -...

that'd be fantastic, but no pressure :D

Is this exactly what I'm after or is it just right in concept, but has unusable fittings? Faithfull SPRAY5 5L Pressure Sprayer: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools I know I don't need any fittings to fill the diffs up, but from those with experience, does this look absolutely perfect and flawless...

OK... so i'll just replace the rears disc and pads with identical ones from EBC and i'll compare the cost of upgrading the front to vented ones with new calipers against the cost of doing like for like again :) Thanks for the advice!

Ah... i'll look into both solutions then - with EBC pads and discs throughout! You say you already switched the rear over, but does that mean you put vented discs and new calipers on the rear too?

So presumably what you did was replace the rear brakes with exactly the same (non-vented, kept the calipers, but bought new discs and pads), but up the front you bought new vented discs, new calipers and new pads, right? All for £150?

brilliant - sounds good - i'll dig up the part numbers, buy it all from EBC and see what the garage are gonna charge..... the sad thing is, it's such a simple job, but I just had a nightmare with the wheel bearings and those "fold-over" locknuts - I'm just never confident (due to lack of...

I was going to go greenstuff last time I replaced the pads, but someone told me I would have to tell my insurance company I had "uprated" the brakes with greenstuff, despite them not actually giving any performance improvement. I thought this was a load of BS, but to save any future screwups I...

I measured the brake discs and here are the results... Front-Right: 10.8mm Front-Left: 11.2mm Rear-Right: 11.4mm Rear-Left: 11.5mm I understand that these are all too thin (on my 1997 Disco 1 ES with ABS). I'm going to get a garage to do this work because since tackling the wheel...

listened once yesterday, and listening again now (in a different browser in case it remembers me and treats both listens as a single one)!!

I fully appreciate what you say... I do learn though. Really I do. Turning it snorkel to face backwards makes perfect sense, but without experience I had no idea whether it was worth it. Maybe the slanted angle and lack of speed means water never enters it. I wouldn't know without either...

OK, so after some pondering (and yes, I really have been thinking - i'm not just rushing into more questions here) i should definitely turn the snorkel head around to face backwards. This one is simple. Connecting my snorkel will create an airflow restriction regardless, so therefore it's...