I think you should take another look, your Disco should have both I think. IIRC Land Rover deleted the drain plug on later models after the introduction of grease rather than oil in the swivels.

Don't put a joint in the pipe, run a whole new one from front to back, joint in pipes are a bad idea if you can avoid them. Double flairs are SAE and singles are DIN, well they were on my 90 anyway, singles are now SAE aswell thanks to new male fittings.

Forget the crappy nut crackers, (I just chucked one in the bin that I was given 'cos the guy couldn't make flairs with it, so I had a go. I've made loads of brake pipes over the years with various tools and that piece of junk is the only one I've struggled with.) I have one of these...

I've just changed mine, it was stuck shut and I had no rear brakes at all.

That's really sad they have some lovely motors in there, they charge top dollar for there restored motors but they are at least keeping the old series motors alive. I occasionally buy bits from them and the guys that work there are a great bunch and really helpful .

Change it or it will shred the seal, even with one shot grease in the housing you may not lose grease but you will get water in, which will do damage

I have one of these Franklin Tools Hand Held Brake Pipe Flaring Tool AF2003 3/16: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools makes good flares every time. I've just replaced all the brake pipes on my 90 including some flares made on the vehicle without a single failure. The only downside with this kit is it's...

Took the 90 for the MOT this morning and it passed first time. Although I have just spent £400 on parts and three weeks replacing the entire braking system and new swivels, seals etc.

Stunning scenery, looks like Derbyshire ;)

Is there no way they can be secured? Additional screws that can only be accessed from under the bonnet for example?

One word, RINGER walk away, there are plenty of 110s around without getting involved with a dodgy one like this. And its far, far too much money.

I am in the process of overhauling the brakes on my 90 including fitting new pistons and seals to the callipers all round. The pistons are Allamakes and the seals genuine Land Rover. The front callipers cleaned up nicely and the new parts fitted fine, however when I come to the rears the...

I don't think it looks like an Evoke or Freelander any more than any other small SUV from any number of makers. Apart from the grill which probably came from the same Chinese parts bin a the original. As for reliability,, it can't be any worse than Land Rovers can it?

When I fit flexible hoses I always fit B F Goodrich stainless hoses with stainless fittings. Only for the sake of authenticity would I fit OE and never anything from the infamous blue box.

File a slot!! file a slot!! This is a Land Rover get the bloody angle grinder on it.

I'd like to attend, where is the meet location? a PM would be nice if you don't want to put it out to all the tinterweb.

It's a typical piece of Land Rover thinking i.e. rubbish design. The real solution is to slot the bracket that holds the brake pipe to the top swivel bearing bolts. Then you can loosen the flexible brake pipe lock nut and the whole thing lifts away without disturbing the swivel bearings. Of...

I've got one of these flare tools, Franklin Tools Hand Held Brake Pipe Flaring Tool AF2003 3/16: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools perfect flares every time. Use cunifer tube not copper, there are a number of stories on the web about copper tube failing in service, although I've never actually met...

Never used a proper one but I have found an impact socket hammered over the security nut does the trick.

New swivels, rebuild the front callipers, refit it all with new bearings, seals and some nice Goodrich braided hoses.