Thanks and that is one less thing to worry about!

Thanks for taking the trouble to put that down in writing. I notice that when cold the idle speed is around 1000RPM, but this goes down to around 800 after a minute or two. We put off the long run because the pulley tensioner was whining, but the new one came today and I have just fitted it, so...

Right, shall leave well alone. The idle is still a bit uneven, but I shall give her a good run out this week and see if it all settles down. Getting my head around how the fueling system has been conceived has been quite an adventure - and a long way from adjusting the timing on my old Series 3...

Thanks for your help - it is very much appreciated. We took her out for a good run and she behaved perfectly, with good power up hills, and starting immediately both cold and warm. Checked the modulation when we got back and it was 55. You must be psychic! Set point and actual are very close...

A nice clear morning so I had a go. Slackened off the three lower bolts plus the long one on the front right and tapped back to the bulkhead - made it worse. So tapped the other way to the front and hey presto the engine idled at 800rpm. Nipped it all up and put it back together, took it round...

Thanks for all your suggestions. I shall try to tap tomorrow, but I don't want to ruin the new FIP gaskets by smacking the casing sideways too hard... There is a Youtube video of a couple of blokes doing this and it looks a bit frightening!

Great - just the top cap! Shall have a go tomorrow. I am amazed at the way the P38, with all its annoying electronics, ends up needing its FIP tapped with a hammer to get it running right...

Thanks for everyone's advice and I have finally found some time on a day without rain or wind to get to work. I changed the top and middle gaskets. That has stopped the leak. But although I marked the position and put it all back to those marks, the engine is hunting at idle from around...

Thank you so much everyone. I can see the fuel leaking down the front face of the FIP, yet I also wonder whether there is another leak from the 0-ring. I ordered this kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162692454602 But perhaps the Lithuanian one will be better... Once this cold weather has passed...

Thanks for that Bix. I have been watching youtube videos, not just of the P38 but Audi & VWs that seem to have the same FIP. Your assurance that it is a piece of cake is well taken. I shall get the security bit as I can see that mangling the bolt will make reassembly difficult..!

Thanks for your quick replies. I shall wait for the gasket set to arrive and let you know how I get on.

Thanks - that is a good point and I shall do the top first and hope for the best!

The FIP is leaking a steady drip drip. I have checked the pipes and am pretty sure it is coming from the middle gasket. How easy is it to renew this? I can see a kit on ebay. And I know I have to mark the top and bottom and get them back in the same alignment. What do I need to look out for when...

I have replaced the glowplugs, put the inlet manifold back on with new gaskets, and the same fault is still there with the needle Lift Valve Invalid. The engine misfires and won't take any power. The resistance across the Needle lift sensor is 115 ohms and the wiring seems fine. I can see a new...

Thanks - it was made in 1998 and does not have EGR. Have fitted remaining No.2 glow plug - just needed a slender 12mm socket. From the oil marks and bits of old gasket I think three of the inlets were leaking. Last thing before putting back on is the air intake temperature sensor, which is...

No, it has the aluminium inlet manifold, which I took off. I shall have a look tomorrow at what exactly is in the way.

Well, after nearly a year I have finally found the willpower to sort out the old girl (this was the fourth time she has had to be recovered in eight years of ownership). I renewed the glow plugs - all but Number 4 which seems impossible to get a socket on because of adjacent plastic housing. One...

Thanks for that. I did try to unplug the connector from the lift sensor in order to check resistance but my hands just can't fit under the mainfold and around the pipes. If we assume the sensor is working correctly perhaps I should go back to look at modulation.

Thanks for your help so far. I am still trying to get my head around the fault, and also the way the system works. I took her for a short run to warm up the engine. After five minutes the engine fault light began to flicker if I went over around 1200-1500 revs. Got home and plugged in the...