Just been offered £2000 trade-in for my '99 TD5 GS Auto (I know, I love it, but it's got to go...). Probably worth more as it's had lots of work (head, rad, SLABS ecu etc) and it's FSH, MoT'd and taxed - anyone wants to make me a better offer and collect from London send me a pm and I'll give...

Anything you say. never argue with a Yorkshire lass. Not to be confused with the ladies of Billingham Forum, or the Ancient Roman "Ladies of the Forum" (hee hee):D

Ah - Apparently the Moderators have lovely wimmins too. :confused:

We do a lot of crap too, but mainly on the "Anything goes" thread. And we have LOVELY moderators...;)

Yep - good luck with it and welcome to the madhouse!

So long as the lights DO come on when you first switch it on, that sounds OK. Shouldn't there be lights on to tell you about the brake problem? If that's the only reason it won't MoT, I'm surprised the seller hasn't had it done.

You might have a look at Lubricants and Gear Boxes

70W80 sounds MUCH too thick to me.

Haven't had this, but you need to hook it up to diagnostics.

Dunno sorry. mine's an auto. Hang on, my manual (D2 up to 2002 year) says Texaco MTF 94. If not available Dexron IID or ATF Dexron III may be used.

Someone might have put the wrong oil in it. It's been known.

I would say no. At least get it MoT'd and find out why it hasn't got one. The reason could be something like 3 amigos which could be tricky to repair. To anyone else, I'd point out that repairs can be expensive on this vehicle, but as you say you could do most things yourself and make it...

I think the earlier ones used quite a lot of Sherpa parts. Which were generally cheaper. But may not be available any more as sherpas were **** and fell apart. Sometimes Sherpa parts were available as separates when LR would only give you a whole unit (eg door mirror glass for a 90)

Only affects the NOx admissions, which are not tested.

It usually means something electrical is running after the ignition is switched off - eg one of those clever radios that stores traffic reports and plays them back to you when you switch on (not so clever if it drains your battery). Not easy to trace but you could go round pressing switches...

If the key wouldn't turn then you probably have a worn switch. Mine does this sometimes if I push the key in too enthusiastically. Taking the key out and inserting it gently while wiggling it about normally sorts it eventually. Solution is a new switch, but I'm mean.

Good advice. The only time I've had this M+S problem has been when I've selected gear a little bit too fast after starting up. But then I don't have aircon:)

Good luck with the project! Let us know how it goes.

Been with Swift for 2 years - quote went DOWN this year. But may change next time as they charge extra for going abroad.

70 is a bit fast, especially with a roof box. I find I get 33mpg at 60, but if I let it edge up it goes down quite quickly. With that load on you should make sure your rear tyres are pumped up to high pressure as per LR spec. I find that mine gives better mpg on French diesel - I suspect it has...