Agreed, however a box faulting through low fluid is living on borrowed time. There seems to be a lot of mention on here of sticking valve blocks. I've had literaly thousands of autoboxes apart over the years and I can count on one hand the number of times I've seen failures caused by...

Is there any warnings up on the dash? Any electrical faults and the gearbox will try setting off in third and it will be the only forward gear available

I'm just going to throw this curve ball in. Far superior system to megasquirt, much better for 8 cylinder use and not a huge difference in price.

Yes it could. Worth a try.

You say it has 4 new height sensors. Just pointing they obvious, they are fitted correctly? I spent ages chasing an air suspension fault on a Cayenne once and whoever had fitted the densors had managed to get the arms 180 degrees out on the sensors. This was creating similair problem.

Eurocarparts list one for a BMW with that engine at 115 quid for a pattern one or 248 for an OEM one. OEM is original equipment manufacture so from the manufacturer that originaly makes the part. Range rover draws a blank on their site. Might be worth ringing them and getting it mail ordered.

Sorry, your post said 550 plus parts.

550 sounds expensive to me.

Brake warning lights is most likely to be the accumulator which is the round black ball thing screwed into the top of the pump on the driver's inner wing. They are a sphere with a diaghram in, one side is charged with nitrogen, brake fluid builds up pressure on the other side against the...

I would suggest the second one. It the slowing down bit that lends it to be the crank pullry. Viscous fans don't tend to rattle unless they are hanging off. It's easy enough for someone with the right tools to remove the viscous fan and try it. I'm keeping my money on the crank pulley...

I seriously recommend you don't drive it or even run the engine until the source of the noise has been investigated and found. If it is a delaminated or loose crank pulley you are risking some serious damage. If you have any form of breakdown or recovery try that.

If you have a loud rattling and the belt/pulleys slow down when loaded without the engine slowing down you need to look very carefully at the crank pulley. Get underneath it's the big one at the bottom. Really you need to take the belt off and get hold of the thing and see if it wobbles, moves...

Crankshaft pulley loose or damper seperated.

You say it's fine round town but off on the motorway? Does it change when the suspension drops to motorway height? If so that "apparently" is normal. It's in a tech bulletin in Rave somewhere.

Used to take them out with a worx sonicrafter and a small blade attachment. And while we are on the subject I could do with replacing the bottom moulding below the glass, the black has come off it and is showing a kind of rusty chrome, so if anyone has one lying around after removing a rear...

It does have round BMW multiplugs on it.

Look on the bright side. You're getting superb fuel economy out of it and whilst it isn't running nothing else is breakig/falling off it. :D

You can tell the ones on here with working P38s. Nothing left to worry about other than the cup holder doesn't flip up. :) I'll add that to page 6 of my list. :D

Trouble is you can't put cylinder pressure into the cooling system with a pressure tester. The way I see it is you have passed a litmus block test, and a pressure test. Is there any tapping when hot? Is it over pressurising? I am dubious about it being a liner/crack or such like. We look for...

What you need is a pressure tester and a borescope. engine hot, cooling system pressurised and loo in each cylinder for signs of water.