Or a wheel bearing........or possibly a brake sticking on.

I would go with this........I had to change my battery last week it was totally fubar would not hold a charge and would not jump start.

It's a faulty brake pedal switch.....possibly?..............look up three amigos........although I can't remember if this affects the fronts as well

You don't have a pump in the tank.........just the one by the rear wheel arch and then a high pressure one under the bonnet above the oil filter on the block by the left hand engine mount. It sounds as though you may have an injector problem.......try turning the Ron box off for power though you...

Ahh Hippo has returned.......wondered where you had got to.........but didn't like to ask:clap2:

I agree with this........with the colder weather they can start to leak from the piston caps due to worn seals. Normally only happens when first started and then they reseal as soon as the pump builds up some heat......a real bugger to find if you have to drive it to a garage for them to take a...

The only thing that's broke on mine in 8 years is one of the 1/4 inch extensions

There's been a few people use these ones.......they seem to have put the price up from last time though.

What SES88 says......mine had an intermittent missfire that you could clear by blipping the throttle, eventually went fubar and needed recovering from Wales.

:pop2:

Wheel bearing would normally be more of a drone. Other possibilities are exhaust and rear diff bushes.........if the rear diff bushes have been changed recently and the noise started after this....then there is also the possibility of it being rear diff drive shaft carrier bearings.

Comes under data protection laws.......just give a copy to the police.

A rasping noise that can be cleared with a blip of throttle was what mine did before an injector went foobar. If your engine chip is in a switchable box like a Ron box ...try turning it off as this will only make the injector fail quicker.

I've had the plate off when changing the carrier bearings....on a bench mind you. Others have done it in situ....but you need to make sure you clean up all the old oil before you reseal else it may cause it to leak. A lot of us now use one of the big fluid syringes to remove as much of the old...

Even though you have replaced the injectors recently....I would get them checked again as one may be faulty.

My worry would be why the diff went in the first place? What mileage has your vcu done?, are you running the same tyres on all 4wheels?, have you had any new tyres put on.....and did you make sure they went on the rear axle and not on the front?.

Aftermarket pumps are known to be noisey in comparison to genuine ones and not to last as long....genuine ones are made by a couple of makers with pierburg being one of them.

Thanks for reporting back....good to hear you got it sorted and it was a simple fix in the end.

Yep it is a concentric slave.....but as far as I have been told to change it you need to remove the guide tube which has two seals and the one that seals the input shaft is easily damaged in the process .....there is a Valeo info sheet on thier web site stating this and they recommend replacing...

If its dripping from the bell housing and you have just had a new clutch and slave fitted...take it a back as they have probably damaged the seal on the guide tube that the slave sits on.......this will allow gear box oil to leak past the gear box input shaft.......although there is another...