So if you have a 1998 Disco 1, there are two candidates for rear shock absorbers. Up to LA081991 there's Type #1 and after MA081992 there's Type #2. Does anybody know what changed on the chassis to necessitate this change? I'm in Morocco and I have a post-MA081992 Disco and can only find the...

Thanks - since the 1-hole housing looks pretty much like the 3-holer I'm going to assume the same capacity and put about 1/3 of a liter of gear oil in there and see what happens. Anything really bad comes of it, I'll post a pic here.

Just opened up the swivel pin housing (Disco 1, 1998: just one hole on top for filling, no level plug, no drain plug) and found what looks like the remnants of grease. It's dark and pretty stiff. I put a piece of wire down to the bottom and it came back pretty well dry - just a few globs of...

Oh yes. Many a piece from Paddock is bolted to this Landy but delivery to Morocco isn't really any option. I'm hugely envious of folks who get boxes of reasonably priced parts delivered to their doorstep within days! Next time I'm in England, I'll grab a pump and bring it home. In the meanwhile...

Your reliability vs saving a buck point is obviously true, but here (Morocco) that f***** pump costs 220 sterling (for Britpart!), and it's going to be a couple of months before I can one at a more reasonable price. So if I can press out a bearing and stick another one to get an extra six months...

Just wondering if anybody has replaced bearings / seals in a 300tdi PAS pump (not the steering box: the actual pump). Replacement with a new unit seems automatic. Is it that much a pain to source the parts? Or is it hard to get open up? Anybody out there given it a try and willing to talk about it?

Thanks! Much appreciated.

Had some clunking and shuddering going on, so I got underneath to give the prop shafts a shake. The front UJ on the front prop shaft has lots of slop if I hold the differential side of it steady and wiggle the prop shaft side of it with my other hand - I'm guessing that it's time to replace it...

And I had a moment of hope. Looks like I'll be twiddling my fingers until I can get the box in here - or combing the breaker's yards here. Thanks for the help.

That's the part, but I only see it at £1,100+vat. Get a whole box (QAF500120) for £345 at Paddock. What am I missing something? Seems like it might be time to buy the whole box and part it out!

Doesn't look good to me. The input shaft is very rough and pitted where the bearings were. I've taken some photos, but I'm thinking it's just time for the new box.

My bad - I didn't check out HU well enough before replying above. I've taken a better look now and yeah, there's some interesting possibilities there. Thanks. The only disco I've had time for so far has been the greasy one in the driveway, but you have me curious now...

Gotcha now. Thank you. There is barely detectable play at centre. Do you mean reset to centre? There was nowhere to set the pin through the drop arm, so I made a mark on the shaft and housing but really I'm relying on counting turns lock to lock and going for the middle of that. Thanks again.

Thanks. I'll go ahead an pull the old one apart then and see what the bearings look like. When turning lock to lock is it possible to make leaky seals do some leaking w/out pressure from the pump? Or am I just feeling for general wear inside?

Thanks - problem there is that car parts carry duty and while I could ask someone to slip a p-gasket in their pocket, 20 kilos of steering box... not so much. Drop us a line if you're coming through town though. Seedy bars are always fun.

The leak in the old steering box has recently turned from a drip to a pour, so it's time to either rebuild it or buy one out of a breaker's yard here. (I'd love just to get an Adwest rebuild from Paddock, but the thought of shipping to Morocco makes me break out in a cold sweat). So I'm looking...

Oh I think I'm getting it now. Wasn't really the conceptual stuff that was my problem so much as the practise - didn't realize how little resistance was needed to kick the power to the other wheels and leave 1 or 2 just hanging there looking useless. Definitely not getting any central diff...

Thanks. That makes good sense. And has the advantage of not needing fixing! I put it up again and spun the wheels - sure enough, the ones with the most resistance (if only by a small margin) were the ones that weren't getting the power. Thanks again.

I put my Disco 1 up on axle stands to check if the Diff Lock was engaging (just bought it and it hasn't been off-road in living memory, and there's no diff-lock warning light, so I was expecting the selector to be seized), but I don't understand what the h*ll is actually going on. First, there...

Duly checked, and the rusty trail begins right in the middle of the thing. I guess I should change them all now before I get new waterfalls.