Thanks for the prompt reply and useful tips.

Could some one tell me if the rear prop shaft UJ easy to change, would a new one need pressed in ?

I have now wired in the original type glow plugs. I had to disguard the rewiring for the parallel type plugs it was all a bit of a lash up wires just twisted together. But I was lucky as I discovered that all the old wiring was there I just had to make sense of it using the wiring diagrams in...

Unlike CharlesY I'm lucky the resistor is still in place, not sure if it is working but i will find out when i put the plugs back in.

Well just spent a couple of hours making the wires to hook up the hair pin type glow plugs (the new ones I bought) I had to use some rubber hose cut into 15mm lengths to act as insulator between the positive and negative on each plug, but using a test lamp they all work when joined together. Now...

I have found this excellent thread, which shows the wiring for the 2 types of glow plugs and goes on to show how to wire in newer type using a relay. Land Rover UK Forums I have the issue of mine was fitted with the later type but they did not work as in the engine will not fire. I was then...

Yep I will continue my tales of woe using chapgrills thread.

Oh I forgot to mention I can't find any relays, so how do things like the indicators and lights work. ???

The whole under bonnet wiring is a mess, there seems to be more disconnected wires than there are connected ons. It does have the soleniod on the starter so that bit is reduntant but why did they not just take it off when the rewired the starter.

Hopefully I have bled the system, I had to replace the glow plugs so while they were out I span the engine over and after a few turns diesel mist was being blowning out of each one of the glow plug holes. But even with new glow plugs it still won't start, mines like chapgrills in that there is...

Can some one tell me what the black connection block is on the bulk head just below the ballast resistor, it has a wire looped between to terminals but no other wires go too it. I have attached a picture.

Where abouts on the filter is the bleed bolt :confused:

Thanks yella I will give that a go

I have been trying to start my series 2.25 diesel, it has never ran since I first got it in october. I decided to change the Fuel filter but I can't work out how to bleed the system. I found the manual fuel pump, could someone tell me were you are meant to I bleed the air from. Also the heater...

I bought 2 bottles so I can give the Rangie an oil change and another 5ltrs of the diesel version for the series. While I was spending money I have ordered replacement springs and shocks for the series iii and a brake overall kit from Paddocks. Yesterday while checking, the current springs are...

Halford's are selling their semi synth 10w/40w oil at half price £9.99 for 5ltrs, is that stuff OK for a 2.25 diesel ?

Thanks to bigchap noticing a problem I now realise that I am also missing a couple of bushes, but as my series is still in bits it's not really a problem yet. But I am hoping to start putting it back together during the Christmas break, So I will see if I can order a couple from my local...

I had a Suzuki SJ that I put a SU carb onto, it would do the same thing that you are saying poor performance and icing up and this was during the summer. I got some copper brake pipe and tapped into the hot water from the heater and put a couple of coils around the Carb adapter plate on the...

I will take tendash apart this weekend and perhaps just fabricate new bits rather then hunt around in a scrap yard as Series LR's seem to be hard to find in North East Scrap yards. Also I might find after taking a scrap one apart that it is in no better condition.

The bottom of the footwells was rotten and I have replaced those with new ones. The rest of the bulkhead engine side appears solid. The rubbish including several large U shaped nails was initially falling out of the drivers heater vent that points down over. So I suppose I will have to take...