3kW is about 14 amps @ 220V..... Small genny fine for resistive loads, like a heater or standard light bulbs, but are bollox for most other stuff. Consider that start up loads as well: some of the small gennys don't throttle up quick enough and will bog down when you flick the on switch of the...

New 'fenders never wave back. Mostly driven by townies :( Have had a couple of modded 'fenders sit behind me (series 2a, doing 50) then pass me just before they got off the dual carriage way, just so they could wave :D

Never knew how good red wheel looked against blue.....I might get me some red paint :D

Portsmouth.

Just taken the oil tank out of the back of the 109. Never had the pump, so no point keeping it. Looks in good condition, still got oil in the bottom, so I assume it doesn't leak. Free to the first person to pick it up.

Go for it. Series 2 should be the old bean can fluid reservoir, see if the centre bit needs topping up. Clutch plates can get stuck to the flywheel with rust, which where the in gear start trick works.

Stick it in gear and push clutch pedal down then start engine. Best to have all the brakes on as well.

It's the £21 ****part ones you need to avoid. My truck came no functioning brakes. The shoes, cylinders, pipes and adjusters were in a box. PO had had a go at doing all 4 corners..... Luckily only one back plate was missing the adjusters, cos the replacements were/are ****. I wrecked the 1st...

Zip ties around the cylinders when you take the shoes off. Don't be tempted to replace the the adjusters unless they are really, really, REALLY ****ed. The bolt in replacements are ****, worse thing i have ever put on the old girl. Make sure you put the rear shoes in the right way round: Land...

Just trying to sort out wiring on the 109......PO (or maybe LR originaly and the PO when it was converted to alternator) has spliced parts of an S3 loom on top of the original cloth covered 2A harness. Needless to say, it's a mess. :doh: 1971, 2A, diesel. The wiper motor has 3 wires on view...

Green book is Land rover service manual. You can probably get an e-version if you do a search on the 'boards. No need to remove 'box. Whip off the transmission tunnel. You have to take the alu cover off, the one behind the shift gate. Take the two detent ball covers off first (bits of 'L'...

They should not be able to twist. Pop off the top cover of the main 'box, and tighten the selector fork onto the shaft. That should stop the twisting. Watchout for the detent balls and springs (the green book will give you details) If it still twists (and it's not twisting in the bore of the...

I think you have to remove the backplate as well. Not certain about it, only remember it was easy to access, but a swine to get out. And I had the transfer box on the bench:violent:

I went with the exmoor trim type Front 2 Door Inertia Reel & Buckle Mounted the reel on the ledge behind the seats. I fabricated a bracket that bolts in under the ledge and then on to the chassis. Top mount behind the door frame in the corner (used the opposite side fitting from the original...

I thought they changed the additives in modern GL5 to ones that don't eat phoshur bronze....not entirely sure about that, but I remember reading a Millers Q&A in mag about it.

I would have gone for a non-gen layshaft. I got a Britpart labelled mainshaft and some genuine gears to rebuild my 'box. Same stampings on both, so I don't recon britpart made the shaft..... Check Dunsfold as well, they are sometimes cheaper than LRseries and only sell genuine.

Is it the right clutch? Some of the diaphragms have a big chunk of metal in the middle, some don't. You have to match the clutch to the bell housing, or the throw on the release bearing will be out. If you really can't get the drum off, you can grind two slits, one each side of the hub and split...

The magnet on a stick is a quick fix job. You want to tear into the diff and clean it out thoroughly after a half shaft snap, cos the 'sploded bits will knacker the rest of the gears :(

Looks like it will make a good 'un.

gas axe..... You could try to file the head so it is square shaped and then get a big square ring spanner on it. Try some heat on the plug first maybe. Or drill the bstards out. it'll fck a few bits on the slot sides and you'll need a sodding big drill at end. once the remaining plug is thin...