Easiest way out of a limted milage policy if you are getting near the limit it to cancel. Costs you a bit in cancellation fee, but you might get a bit of a refund if there are a few months left. Then take a new policy with an appropriate mileage. I used to have a limit of 100K a year on my...

Yes, I am one of those sad farts who read them all. Sends the wife mad :blah: Anyway, phoned them and the bloke said it cos of the Web/Electronic documents thing. Basically, if you download your policy, Admiral group will assume you do everything electronically, so will NEVER send you paper...

They just tried to take money from my bank...auto renewal. Bank refused, so Admiral write to me. Which is the first I have heard from them, cos they didn't even send me a renewal notice! OK, the price wasn't too bad, cheaper then last year (very surprising!), but surely they have to notify...

if the bead is really stuck, dump the wheel on the floor under the landie and use a high lift jack to force the tyre into the well. use talc or proper rim lube (;)), washing up juice is bad for rims and tyres.

Price?

you have shifted the transfer box into low? the yellow nob only resets when you shift into low, not on shifting to neutral.

The machinery isn't the problem....don't have a 15.8 at work, so I have to fork out for it. :( I could get a cheaper 16 and grind it down, but hardly seems worth it, it's not that much cheaper.

Yep, sounds like adjusters. Another way to check is to lock all the adjusters up so the shoes are tight on the drums. then check if the pedal will take on the first pump. if it does, your adjusters were wrong, if not, there's a leak/wrong M/C etc. also agree you should check rear shoes...been...

Thanks OSD. Price of a 15.8 drill was a bit of a shock....cheapest i've found is £44! more of a surprise, that's a taper shank, a plain shank is even dearer.

Mine does the oposite. Tickover is rough (i have it adjusted to tickover as slow as possible) and gets a bit quicker with the handbrake on. Putting the brake on does change the natural frequency of the engine/chassis unit, so something is probably vibrating less (or more), just as others have...

The old threaded studs are gradually falling out of the hub, one fell out completely last wheel change :( Has anybody replaced theirs with the later M16 press fit jobs? I so, what size did you drill the holes for the interference fit?

Has anybody fitted a set of standard springs from GB springs? Any feedback to give (ride, level, finish etc). I know lots of peeps have got parabollocks from them and have been happy, but I prefer the traditional ways :)

google is your freind. but you're "meant" to have black on yellow or white for that age. Still available in metal tho'

Cam locks (the quick release for the wheels, seat post etc) from bicycles make reasonable quick release fasteners. Used them for loads of fixings when i used to run up and down to trade shows and had to set things up fast. They need a bit of thought tho' to make them really fast.

I'm up for a run out bordon/hindhead area. Tax exempt diesel 109....so you might have to slow down for me :P Look to be some nice lanes just north of petersfield, but i've not checked them all yet.

search function?

I'll say the GS.....it's probably in a couple of boxes :)

I get them in the back of a 109 van. Problems i have: Even with the bike on the diagonal, the door doesn't close properly with a proper bike (a 500 or bigger) normally the bed is a couple of inches short, the tyre catches the door. It can be tight to get a fairing thru the rear door height...

Don't mess around, just replace the whole loom. Pretty easy on the diesel, plus you can also add some more fuses and use thinwall cables. Took me a weekend to make one up, including soldering all new multiplugs and adding circuits for fogs, electric fan, heated windscreen etc.

obvious question....is the rest of the motor free? Can it be turned over using the crank bolt? The heater plug lights on series tend to be a bit dim anyway.