I remember some years ago speaking to the chap who owns the MOT station I use - he was moaning buckets as he had a early Freelander in for it's first MOT and it failed but only on the rear fog light not working - thinking it was a switch or a bulb he quoted £50 to fix it.... of course the faulty...

Hmmm think this might be more topical that last nights Farage/Clegg match... I can see both sides here. Internet forums are meant to be free and helpful but I think what sets this forum apart is that there are many, many people who contribute significantly to it with considerable experience...

In front of the battery on my 2002 TD4 manual there are three relays, one yellow and the other are blue with integral fuses. Does anyone know what they are for? The yellow one has fallen off and apart, one of the blue ones has melted slightly near the fuse, but all electrical systems seem to...

In my experience when the oil seals in turbo's fail, they can go in one of two ways. If the seal on the exhaust turbine side fail, you tend to get white oily smoke - the oil vaporises in the hot exhaust gas but doesn't burn as there is no oxygen so you get white smoke and a thick oily smell...

This sounds weird, but looking at it logically, to move the steering wheel when braking suggests that significant force is being applied to the track rods and this can only happen because of the wheel (or more specifically front hub) moving or trying to move. If that is the case then either...

I've got EBC Green Stuff pads on my Spitfire and they were worth every penny - there is no servo on the Spitfire so the pedal feel is much more indicative of what's going on. However if you are just driving about gently, not towing anything heavy or carrying big loads, just get some off ebay...

Given that headlights are going for about a tenner a piece on e-bay it might be worth buying a set to be the sacrificial proto-types....

Being very generic, diesels are simple in principle and non-starting (major engine faults apart) are usually caused by low or no fuel pressure. This ties in with your gradual loss of power. My suggestion would be to check the following, depending on what equipment you have access to. In order...

They have probably removed/refitted the shoes and are waiting for the automatic adjusters to do their stuff. However when I did this to my car, the adjusters did not work and I had to do it manually, and then I had to adjust the cables but it works really well now. I am more interested in...

2002 TD4 GS Manual, 132k, running very well, pokey and smooth. Has had a clutch and VCU recently. (no major issues but a number of minor electrical issues) 1996 Discovery 300TDi, 104k, running ok-ish, sounds like a cement mixer full of spanners when cold, low on power until warmed up, weak...

The most likely cause is the speakers. Most factory fitted speakers aren't great and it sounds like you have one or more faulty ones - no amount of new amps or head units will improve this. Suggest you replace the speakers with aftermarket (Kenwood, Pioneer etc) component replacements and see...

Found Rimmers to be very good in the past - have used them for almost 20 years since I restored a Spitfire, then dabbled with an MGF, now Discovery 1 & Freelander. When I was looking for some Spitfire parts they even let me have a rummage through their vast warehouse when I couldn't explain...

As everyone has said you should try to deal with the insurer as your contract is with them, not the body shop. Also, body shops usually charge you the excess as the insurer pays them net of the excess - don't handover a penny until you are happy. Keep in mind their job is to restore the car...

I think Myotherworld's suggestion is correct - tell the bodyshop that you refuse to accept the car back but drive it through the insurers if they are paying, I would also suggest you ask that the corrective work is done by another bodyshop as you have no confidence in the first one. You might...

....and did they use a whole tin of brake cleaner on one car? Of course not. Off topic I know but I have a lease car (VW Passat) as my daily driver as I do 50k+ miles a year with my job. The lease is the lease only, but they manage all servicing and tyres etc. and pass the costs through. You...

It's hard to describe but it is very noticeable the difference a new VCU makes to driving the Freelander - even if the old one was just a little tight rather than totally solid. Much light when doing low speed manoeuvres, a bit more sprightly. FYI If you ask them Bell will fit new bearings &...

My passenger side heated seat was not working, the fault was the plug/socket connector for the base heating pad had a bad connection, had overheated and melted. However I was getting a light on the switch...

Are you certain that the gauge is faulty rather then the engine temp falling? Do you still get a good output from the heater, you should also be carefully monitoring the coolant level for any loss. As Zefrench suggested first step is to use a OBD reader to read the temperature from the ECU -...

+1, Having repaired 4 out of 5 of the windows on my 5 door, next time I wouldn't hesitate to spend the extra and get the full regs (unless you like tinkering and getting your hands scratched...)

You need to drop the window slightly, there are two clamps which grip the glass to the regulator, you undo the bolts on the clamps with a 10mm socket. If your window is stuck fully up, you may have to fiddle with spanners or cut the remaining cables to get the window down. if you look on...