I've been thinking that this might be the course of action I need to take.

I had the same experience with the adhesive I first tried. I was able to find a can of 3M Super 77 industrial-grade adhesive and the headliner has been stuck in place for the past 2 years. Also be generous with the adhesive.

The window frame on the driver's door doesn't fit tight to the body seal at the upper rear corner. The fit is good at the front portion of the window and at the rear bottom of the window where the window frame meets the door. With the door closed, sitting in the driver's seat, you can see the...

Thanks to a friend near Salisbury, I've secured a replacement filler neck.

Thanks for that bit of info.

Well, I may have found a replacement filler neck; hope so. The workshop manual doesn't talk about how to remove/replace the filler neck. Is there a how-to somewhere about how to remove and replace the filler neck? I haven't been able to find one.

Ah, bad timing for me. The filler is an obsolete part. Any suggestions for a breaker yard that might have this part?

Thanks. That looks like the right part number, it just doesn't seem to be available new, shall start the search for a used one.

Due to a recent accident, the fuel tank filler neck/pipe has a crack in it. It looks very similar to part #10 in the attached image. Does anyone know what the part number is for the filler neck for a 1996 D1 300 Tdi? Is the filler neck used on other LR vehicles?

Thanks, I'll give this a try tonight.

The brakes pads, disks are all relatively new, all calipers are in good working order and the brake fluid was recently changed, so I know that portion of the braking systems is in good working order. I hadn't thought of the vacuum pump. Is there a way of testing the vacuum pump?

I'm having an odd brake issue with my 1996 D1 Tdi, which has ABS. Normally the brakes work find. If you push the pedal really hard, the ABS kicks-in and plusate the brakes. But sometimes, like this morning I pushed the pedal really hard and the brakes didn't lock up, nore did the ABS plusate...

Well, yes, of course. :-) I was thinking of putting a hydrocarbon absorbent pad under the inj pump first and letting the vehicle sit, see if that helps to pin-point the leak point.

Seal on the egg-shaped thing, could try tightening the bolts a bit I guess.

Thanks Neilly. Mine is a 300Tdi EDC and doesn't have a throttle spring pivot. I have noticed that the top of the injector pump, where the throttle spring would be, is dry.

My 96 D1's 300Tdi engine (this is an EDC engine) has been dripping fuel since late last fall and in the past week the amount has increased. Diesel is all over the side of the engine and the firewall. It's hard to tell where it is coming from because it doesn't appear to be leaking while it is...

Yesterday I set about timing the injector pump again, and this time I made sure that the slot on the injector pump pulley and the mark on the flywheel where in the right spot. I adjusted the position of the injector pump and thing time the engine started. Thanks for the help. Now, the glow...

Thanks guys for all your help. I hope to get back to the Disco later this week and follow James' instructions of an additional turn on the crank after TDC to get the pump pulley into the correct spot and re-time the injector pump, as well as, check all the fuses.

The workshop manual makes it sound like that when I have found TDC with the valves on #1 and the timing pin is engaged in the flywheel that I have it aligned correctly, but the step I missed, and James did point out, is that another rotation of the crank is needed so that I get to proper...

I did check a number of the fuses, but I will go back and check them all, verifying using an ohm meter. The timing mark on the flywheel and not corresponding to where the crank pulley was supposed to be has me perplexed. I bought this 1996 D1 300TDi two years ago from a friend that imported it...