From all speakers or just one? I guess what confuses me is that the rear door has two speakers, driven by the same amp, but only one of the speakers buzzes. I assumed it was a fault in the door amp, but have ruled that out.

So, I'm interested in what this repair is specifically fixing? I see it mentions a buzzing sound, but is that from all speakers? I have an intermittent buzzing from the midrange speaker in one of the rear doors, but no other speakers. I've swapped the rear door amps over but the problem persists...

If I'm reading your post correctly, the car was running fine when you dropped it off for some work to be done and once the work was done it's not running fine? If that's the case, just hand it back to whoever did the work and tell them to call you when they've fixed whatever they broke.

Missing pixels is often just where the ribbon cable to the display no longer makes contact with the board very well. I've not taken one of these apart, but on another stereo with missing pixels the ribbon cable was stuck to it's contact point with some sort of adhesive. If the Clarion is the...

Very true. I have two of key 1 because the previous owner needed a spare and the LandRover dealer very helpfully guessed (wrongly) at which he was missing instead of ordering a key 3!

Look at post 15 in this thread: BMW fault codes and their meaning. BMW Fault codes list. - Page 2 It's the BMW fault codes for the M51 in a 3, 5 and 7 series BMW. It's the list that the OP posted a page or so back.

I think the M51 was used in CANbus BMW models, E38 7 series for example, which is where I suspect the long list came from. OP doesn't seem to realise that the implementation of the engine in the P38 is different to that in the BMW.

That's because you are buying a bunch of parts with no idea whether any of them work. As I said, you have to be prepared for any part to be non-functional, missing, broken or not fit. There are no specific problems that we can highlight because everything on this project is a potential problem.

I have only done it when the body is on the chassis, but it is a bit of a pain to get it into place. I agree that doing it on the chassis is best for alignment purposes, so if you have the option, I'd suggest that you take advantage of the body being off the chassis and actually do it by...

Often it's 'better the devil you know' - a replacement won't be trouble free either.

Really? I took a watch apart once without breaking anything. Unless you count the fact that I broke the watch by taking it apart! :D

You could have faced literally any problem imaginable. If a car is bought in pieces you have zero confirmation that anything at all works. And that's before you start fitting a different engine to the one the car came with originally.

So, what is the name of the polish?

Not really. There are tacky aftermarket L322-style bits that fit a P38, but it always looks absolutely awful.

Why not just ask for a Nanocom and be self-sufficient!

I replaced mine with a manual one from Emmotts. I figured that if I replaced it with another automatic one that would eventually go the same way.

So, to return to this with some feedback, I have finally got around to have a look at the car. The problems all stem from bodged attempts to cure the hot starting problem. I managed to tweak the pump until I got withing the 45-55% modulation range, and that has made the car much more driveable...

Which is what page one of this thread said about the whole project. I'd say it's already gone beyond what was thought possible four pages ago. And even if it's not, the human race has only progressed through trying the impossible.

I suspect you'd need to look at making the comm work through the OBDII port for it to be a practical proposition for most people, rather than having to open up the BECM - do you think that's feasible?

Yes, you have to write the EMS code to the BECM to sync.