In trying to find out what's causing my EML to come on going up hills at 60/70mph I've read this thread. Were the symptoms the EML light on intermittently or all the time? I can make mine come on if I give it a bit of "boost" going up a hill for longer than 5secs (i.e. Turbo under load)...

Will arm the misses with some pliers and give it a go - gauge accurate...very much doubt it but at least it goes higher than yesterday, lol

Update: Dismantled the gauge and fixed the problem. Test drove with the wastegate arm at the length it's been for the last 13 years and .... 0.7 bar Re-set the wastegate bar to the standard +3 turns (3mm) from "pop on" (as per the video) and got only 0.5bar on the test drive :( Note: The...

Yes the one between the air filter and turbo is fine and all the others are new. See my last post - as now I'm not even sure that there is a problem ;) Also for info - I ran the compressor's air through to the wastegate actuator and the bar moved fine when the pressure was increased - good...

Little update - before I dismantled turbo, engine, car and everything else I could find I decided to test the new gauge. Fired up the compressor and set it to 1.5 bar and popped the nozzle in the feed pipe for the gauge.......and guess what.......0.3 bar......whacked the compressor up to 7bar...

Thanks - think I'll flush the Intercooler through anyway just to be sure ;)

OK - this is the first time I've had a gauge on the Turbo but am pretty certain that she ran much better prior to the end of last summer. I've owned the car more than 12 years so am thinking it's more something that's got stuck or worn rather than something that was not set right prior. When I...

Do you think the wastegate is opening too soon? When I shortened the bar I got no difference at all with the boost level.

Hello, I need some help please.... 1986 Land Rover 90 with a 200Tdi. Noticed a lack of "power" last summer whilst pulling a twin jetski trailer out of the water on a steepish slipway - engine revs went up but no power. It's not a slipping clutch and since last summer I've: -...

Looks like the new starters are just less quick on turnover - if I preheat now (never had to before) then she fires up first time. Sounds to me more like you have a problem with the "juice" getting to the starter motor or the starter motor is stuck, from what I learnt doing mine this could be...

Bit of an update for anyone that's interested (not many apparently, lol). - Timing belt changed (new belt and pulley) - oh what fun that was. - Whole engine de-gunked - didn't know it was silver in parts. - New Turbo hoses (the old ones were softer than a sponge) - New lift pump (didn't really...

Thanks chaps for the replies - it does indeed seem to be a Defender 200Tdi. These are the images from the Haynes Manual which threw me (LHS 12J & 19J, RHS 200Tdi .... mine is definitely the same as in the LHS image as you can see from my photos in the 1st post) >>

I guess the Haynes manual must be wrong then as the picture it gives which matches my timing cover is for a 19J engine. Very pleased that it is a 200 Tdi as that what's I wanted but with conflicting pictures I was just getting more confused. Is there a difference between the Defender 200Tdi...

Land Rover 90 1st registered 14-08-1986. I bought it in 2001 and was told that the engine is a 200Tdi. I've started to have a little problem with low down power and have started to replace/eliminate certain items (stack, lift pump) and am in the process of replacing the timing belt (have...

Thanks Steve - in the research I've done on lack of power at the bottom end the list says: - Stack pipe - Lift Pump - Injectors - Timing With the timing belt, tensioners, etc. not being checked/changed/looked at for over 12 years it does seem possible that as you say the tenisoner has gone and...

Having problems with low end power (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f48/possible-clutch-problem-need-your-advice-pls-196549-2.html) which got me thinking about timing belts. I've had the 90 for over 12 years now and never changed the timing belt - never even thought about it. To be fair I've done...

Removed the old lift pump yesterday and outside of the block it seems to have pressure. Put the new pump on and no pressure turned the engine over by hand (socket on the pulley bolt) with my GF trying the pump and at no stage during the 3+ full revolutions did we feel any pressure change. I know...

I asked a LR mechanic why the symptoms are only evident on slow speed manoeuvres - he said that once the car is rolling and at speed (revs rather than high road speed) it can draw/suck the diesel through and relies less on the lift pump. Sounds feasible - either way once I've fitted the new one...

Sorry I don't know what the cold amperes are but did some further investigation today and have discovered the following: Took off the new starter and wired it directly up to the old battery. Did the same exercise with the old starter. Old starter is considerably faster than new one = problem...

Update: 1: no pressure on the lift pump manual handle. 2. Naff all diesel in the filter 3. Engine on tickover very slow to bleed the diesel filter. 4. Cut off the gauze filter from the bottom of the tank feed pipe (following advice from a LR mechanic) but this was not blocked. 5. Ordered a new...