Thanks pal I’ll give him a try if nobody comes up with anything closer.

I need my p38 2.5 timing chain replaced and the FIP timing correctly. The engine is around 160k now and I can hear it rattling. I don’t have the tools or confidence to do it myself and was wondering if anybody has any recommendations of mechanics that know what they’re doing in the Yorkshire...

Just what i needed, Thanks very much

Does anyone know the best way to get into the drivers side door if the lock stops working while the door is shut? All the other doors open, and the central locking works, its just the drivers door that you cant open from inside or out and also the plunger at the top feels like it isnt...

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Still doesnt answer if it's a ****ed FIP or stretched timing chain. I couldnt care less if my mechanic has an IQ of 4. There must be a reason it wouldnt run on the correct timing. I'm just trying to diagnose the issue

It has brand new glow plugs and a brand new starter

The engine in it as 160k miles so the chain has the same. My FIP is off the original car so will have around 110k

He described it to me as the engine wouldnt idle correctly if it was timed to the manufacturers spec, so he timed it slightly differently so it would idle smooth and runs spot on when started, but no matter the temperature it takes a lot of cranking the engine and I have to press the accelerator...

My 2.5 p38 struggles to start since an engine swap, my original diesel pump was used in the new engine. I'm wondering if the new engine has a worn timing chain or if my FIP is shot. The garage that timed it said they had to time the pump differently so it would idle better, but struggles to...

I'm thinking the replacement box I've got is knackered, another 500 quid down the drain. Thought putting the hp24 would strengthen the reliability

My old 2.5 autobox gave up and I've just swapped it with a hp44 065 box which I was told was a straight swap, when I tried to drive it, it made clunking noises and would only move slightly when manually selecting 1st gear. On top of this I got a stall speed error fault The diesel bell housing...

Limited to 1500rpm when foot on the brake and in drive with throttle at full, when in neutral revs freely to the redline

It didnt shift at all just revved to 1500, it wont pull when trying to drive normally also, I can be foot flat to floor and doing 20mph

It's just a standard converter and wouldnt go above 1500 with my foot on the brake and full throttle

Does anyone know what the stall speed should be when testing the box mine was 1500rpm which seems low, read somewhere it should be around 2500rpm

Well I've still not managed to fix the fault, ive put a new battery and made sure the alternator was still throwing good voltage, which it was. Fault is still solenoid power fault, ashcroft weren't interested in just doing the solenoids they were pushing a recon box for north of 800 quid...

Yeah I'm showing good voltage and still throwing the solenoid power fault, strange it's not telling me which one it is, need a gearbox specialist I assume then. Might be cheaper just getting a used box

I'll try swapping the battery and see if it's that however it's just thrown the fault again and the car would hardly move forward

Any recommendations on who could do it or do you reckon it's worth just replacing the box as a whole, I reset the fault with the nanocom and it hasnt played up since, also I noted the battery was reading 11.9v without the engine on just second notch, then upto about 13.9 with engine running and...