NO WAY!! I have just bought another cluster to replace my busted one. i thought this would be a straight swap over for sure. wrong again:doh:

Got same prob on mine n/s keeps blowin fuse. Cant decide whether the fault is behind wing or dasboard. wiring up to fuseboard seems ok. switched units over in case it was dodgy sealed beam but fault still on n/s. Any suggestions on easiest place to start, wing or behind dash????

Looking to do this myself, what is the issue with splines compared to earlier axles? Why is 24 preferable? Is there any way to simply bolt on the brake assembly to existing axle? Sorry if this is a dumb question but i'm sure someone can probably shed some light instantly on this:) cheers

? looked on ebay and a 200tdi looks different, any suggestions Discovery 200Tdi Fuse Box on eBay (end time 22-Mar-11 10:18:38 GMT)

This is pic of rear of fuseboard which hopefully the colours will match up to existing wiring with plenty of spare fuses for extra additions:) The idea as per recommendations is to solder and heatshrink the appropriate wires together. Will keep you posted when i undertake changeover with...

This is the picture of the board i purchased from a disco. I believe it to be a 200tdi. Can anyony confirm this before i start? cheers

Got a bpard today so will be fitting at the first available opportunity. Any tips on putting pics up????

i know post a little old but thought i'd add to it nevertheless for anyone else looking. Exhaust manifold can definately cause a ticking sound. Used to have an audi quattro turbo and they suffered from cracked exhaust manifolds (as did mine) and it sounded just like a sticky hydraulic tappet...

Can see where the glass breakage started by pattern of shards. happens to be where a weld was put in centre of the channel where window sits. Defo needs some remedial work and preferably a swing away carrier

mmm, sounds like it is a common problem then:) MrJC has got it in one me thinks!!!! Cheers for the link

Apparently today i was told it was a common problem (yet another) for the rear door window to explode when shutting the door??? Is this the case, or is there something i should do to prevent this from happening again? PS Anyone got a spare they want to sell, local to the black country:)

Sorted! Must be an earth fault on the trailer board. Connected it to trailer with built in wiring and board today and all worlked well:)

Nice one, thanksfor the links. bookmarked:)

I had a smiliar problem. If you changed the lamp holders, make sure you have the live and earth the correct way around cos otherwise when you put the indicators on, power goes via the earth on the lamp holder before going through the bulb.

Great! rewired a new tow socket in and everything works except hazards?? they work on the car but other lights are lighting up on board???? Any ideas if its the board or a fault elsewhere?

Nothin could be worse than how mine has been done. As said, bodging of this type does cause a world of probs. Will rip it all out and start from scratch with soldered brass bullets connected in the rear tubs.

Thanks guys, thats exactly what i was after. i know some are 3.9 and some 4.7 so well happy and can buy off fleabay knowing i'll get the right ones:) cheers

In the process of sorting my wiring (bodged) and need to replace and insert some new brass bullet connectors in my 86/87 landrover 90. Anyone know the size of these??? Thanks in advance

UPDATE: Fault appears to have been in front lens area. Someone had wired up the lens unit with spade connectors but switched wires around so every time the earth screw was put in it created a dead short when indicators were put on!

For anyone with same fault, i think i have found problem. Someone has rewired front indicator with spade connectors and reversed wires so instead of power going through bulb to ground, it is going the other way! Therefore, wires heating up and fuse blowing.