Help needed on tracing the lack of power to the above items. I've followed the wiring diagram for a series 3 with reference to the power supply and have traced it back to the regulator at the back of the clocks which is a solid dark green wire. There is no powere there hence none to the gauges...

Oh well, never mind, i'll keep searching. Thanks though

I'll see if i can get some up before i do too mch work. Got loads of bits on i would have wanted to add too so well happy at the moment

its the double skinned roof i'm after, is that the one you have or a normal single skinned roof?

Any conclusions????

Not sure if this is the right section but got to post somewhere :) Had a defender, gaylander and now onto a series 3. Got all the bits i want except the safari roof. Got the sides, only need the top roof skin, although would take complete hardtop. Anybody out there have one or know of one for...

You are probably very right the rate i am getting through repairing everything else on the car!!!!

Contemplating fitting a Synergy 2 but a mate reckons a remap is a better way to go? Anyone gone down the remap route? Or do folks reckon the Synergy is the way to go.

Got a Freelander 1 2003 TD4. The pipe from the turbo is splitting so needs replacing. Whats the general consensus on standard replacement vs silicone aftermarket. Secondly, any recommendations on where to purchase.

Sounds about average. I know when we went on holiday with motorway work it was around 40, but quite surprised at 29-30. Ive done air filter, crankcase breather to BMW part and EGR delete mod. Maybe look at maf at some point but doesn't sound like its too far off the norm

Got an 03 td4 and getting only about 29-30mpg knocking around. Wondered whether this was the norm. What are you guys getting out of yours?????

not sure if i have a ptc heater. its the last of the prefacelift freelander 1s 2003? what should i look for and check re lumpy idle?

Got mine from BMW. Apparently they do an annual price increase so it was about £34 or so. Came with gaskets, wasn't too bad to fit, no trimming or anything, did air filter while I was on. Only thing I did worry about was I had to remove pipe from top of injector to get unit out and clip back in...

Hi My wiring just at the plug to the fuel rail sensor sheared the other day. I have soldered it but could do with this section of wiring if anyone is or knows of anyone breaking a TD4 freelander. Cheers

Checked mine yesterday. When i pull up and turn ignition off, they stay on. If i dont get out of the car after about 1 minute or so, a relay quite audibly clicks and they switch off. If yours aint switching, thats where i'd be looking for the problem.

Thanks, now i know what theyre both for and what i need to do, or dont as the case may be :clap2::clap2:

Nothing at all to do with EGR bypass. The fuel rail sensor had a break internally in the wiring harness. Basically, when changing the EGR i simply touched the wire which was enough to cause a break in the circuit which gave a P0190 fault code. I went straight to the sensor with engine running...

[SOLVED]I have replaced the gummed up egr with a blanking mod, ie straight through pipe.with blanking attachments. However, upon startup the management light came on. Any ideas as I haven't touched any electronic components and bolted up everything ad it came off.

He's done loads of searching forums and that what I thought, just wasn't 100% sure. Just seemed odd a random pipe with filter not attached to anything. Any idea what the black curved metal tube by it is for?

My lights stay on on the switch when I take key out but extinguish as soon as I open door. It's like they use wherewithal power until interior light comes on. Nevertheless they go out before I even get to locking the door