Well done for persevering. Yes the camshaft looks like it was a tooth out (assuming the white mark is the timing mark). Check again to see if there is a notch in the edge of the camshaft sprocket. Looking at your picture again, yes it is a clear punched mark. Hopefully it is plain sailing from now.

Cobalt tipped drills last longer.;)

Yes, the timing pin is the same. In your case, I assume you are using a 3/16" or 5mm drill bit. The woodruff key and arrow is only a rough position. The crank must be at TDC to get the timing right.

The belt timing is the same for both engines. For automatics; Note on automatic gearboxes that there is no bell housing drainhole. Instead there is a blanking plate on the vertical face of the flywheel housing (underneath the vehicle) that must be removed and the Locking Pin is fitted into...

If the cam sprocket is correctly aligned, it must be on the correct TDC, otherwise the cam would be 180 deg. out. The kit is definitely worth it. Pullers and pins all in one package. Unfortunately Graham has gone past the point where the kit is useful - until he does the next one.:)

Out of interest, did you adapt the 2 jaw puller or did it slip in behind the sprocket?

Then the timing is wrong. Get the fly wheel locking pin in first and then check the pump timing position. The pump locking pin should be an easy sliding fit when the crank is at TDC. The camshaft sprocket timing mark must also be aligned with the web on the timing belt housing when the crank is...

Looks like you will need a puller for the removal of the crank sprocket with some heat if necessary. The bolts look like an M5 thread so don't be too heavy handed. I suspect the locktite needs to be released with some heat. This is covered in the Glencoyne article. Make sure you replace the oil...

The sprocket should just slip off. Maybe a previous owner has glued it in because of damage round the woodruff key. Try some heat. Worst case scenario, you will need a need crankshaft oil seal and sprocket. Why do you need to remove it unless you want to replace the oil seal. Leave well alone...

If I understand it correctly, the long pump bolts invariably shear off. So grind them off and the pump and cover will slide off. Then use the stud extractors, (item b) are good because they give you good purchase. About £18 I think. A bit of heat may help as well. When you refit the new bolts...

Its not worth a punt. The lowest amperage is 60 amps which is too high. As has already suggested, the mig welding forum is a very helpful site. You are looking for 130 amps with a minimum of 30 amps. A second hand set would be your best bet but go with one that has a gas option. I would look...

The kit is correct and Dayco are a good manufacturer.

This may be of help to you; 200TDi timing belt replacement

Paddocks ref: 546799= push rod; ERR2530= timing belt tensioner; no ref for water pump gasket so speak to Paddocks I would replace the tensioner. I cannot see anything else you may need. The belt tension needs to be set with a beam type torque wrench but you can improvise. Why not clean the...

You do need a 52mm socket for the hub nut. Other than that, a standard socket set and / or spanners will do. You can use it in the short term if you can wait. Avoid turns on full lock as that will strain the joint. If the joint or half shaft fails, you can still get traction with difflock engaged.

Just a thought. The chrome balls may be filled with one shot grease. No problems with topping up these with hypoid oils. Make sure you grease the joints on the prop shafts.

You are too far away from me. However, at worst, a few push rods need renewing. Whilst the head is off, skim it to ensure trouble free life in the future. Whilst the head is off, I would take the the opportunity to lap in the valves. Use a reputable head gasket supplier and you should finish...

Hire an engine hoist to support the gearbox. Haynes suggests that way and others on this forum. Could be worth replacing the slave cylinder at the same time if it has not been replaced before.

If difflock is working and engaged, jacking up one wheel or axle will still allow the vehicle to drive as the other axle will have power. When out of difflock, jack up one wheel and all the power will go through that wheel so no ability to drive. Is the difflock light coming on when you engage...

Get the head skimmed to ensure the repair is effective. I have used Elring and Payen without problems.