Right From this post "Got the pin in,Easy peasy,took off clutch master cylender,pushed pedel down to floor,super glued the pin head to an 8 inch long piece of metal coat hanger,plenty room to put the master cylender in place,and manipulate the pin so it pushes back throu the pedal,same with...

i replaced the slave about 8 years ago and it has been dripping for about a year or so i suspect the master purely because the clutch bite point has been getting lower over time slave is least easier to get to have had the clutch fork mod done am anxious as I need to buy food

Right so asked and answered A paper clip through one hole and a bit of luck in getting it out The old seals looked perfectly fine but the new ones argued a lot more to put on than the old ones did to take off Will begin my fight with the pin and circlip on the clutch pedal tomorrow hope it...

As per heading I need to fit new seal's to my clutch master cylinder - R380 box After getting it out of the vehicle the cir-clip holes are so small that I dought a cir-clip removal pliers actually exists for that size The circlip itself moves around in its groove easily Any other tips from...

Is that an intake or exhaust port ?

And a hearty welcome from a fellow southern hemisphere - good old RSA - I have 2 things you may be envious of a Discovery 1 and a Webb Ellis Cup

on my D1 the ABS light eventually died after being on for many many years - so maybe the globe hasn't been removed

on my D1 that cover plate is the slide used for the aircon belt tensioner and I have removed that on occasion to access the 3 bolts holding the timing belt pulley to advance or retard the injector pump timing while experimenting

To be more specific it's a left hand drive 300 tdi I haven't seen one with the cylinder head temp gauge on top like that before

While egt's are a very important measure - it's not the only one I can get 650 while doing 2000 rpm in thick sand very quickly - but if i am doing 120 kph I don't want to see over 550 on even the steepest hill 4 th gear and 3000 rpm will get you to 700 very quickly without the right foot...

I am sure that that green box has nothing to do with the indicators.. I had mine stop working many many moons ago- also no hazards like yours my failing memory tells me it was just a relay that needed replacement the grey matter doesn't extend to which relay but the drivers side rings a bell

Are the mechanism's of the fan serviceable at all ?

easy check to do while lying under the front of the vehicle looking at the panhard rod join to the chassis or axle - get someone to slowly turn the steering right to left - like from 11 o clock to 2 o clock - that is off course left to right but then i am upside down in my hemisphere u...

this is going to cost me money - i can feel it there is a fairly recent thread on someone fitting a gas flowed head from Turners i think a quieter motor and more low down grunt was the takeaway i got from the thread here in saffer land some get the exhaust manifold powder coated and seem...

well 2010 and lr2 don't go together and certainly not in the series section

Then after replacing the above take all the wheel bearings, front and rear radius arm bushes, all the oils needed ( you will be doing an oil change on the way anyway 0 , brake pads , uj joints , all ball joints these are all small items to carry If you cant replace wheel bearings for eg you will...

google did find me a thread on i think the ausie forum and that person wasn't able to drill it out as the magnet was too hard to drill into it's all aluminium around the bolt and that will just melt - i think

This might qualify as the most obscure question on LZ But here it is i have the transfer box drain plug with the magnet in it's nose - a while ago while undoing the offending bolt it broke so I have the broken bit still in its place of normal residence and it isn't leaking i am planning...

For the trailing arm return I have found that using two jacks works a teat - and don't tighten up the nut on the radius arm to chassis cross member one jack under the axle and one under the bottom of the radius arm i bet you the second side that you do will be a quarter of the time needed for...

After doing the intermediate shaft o-ring replacement it could be leaking again - my experience anyway