Went to start my v8 today, key in ignition turn to the light come on and get noise coming from behind where the radio is. Engine won't turn over either. Does it sound like a spider fault???

Only doing a top end rebuild, Cam, followers, rockers, push rods, timing chain & gaskets. Only took the heads off to replace 2 leaking core plugs which sods law would be the ones at the rear :rolleyes:

I wish!!! Working shifts unfortunately gets in the way, that coupled with averting a minor disaster with the washing machine in the kitchen at the weekend, things never seem to go to plan :(

New ones bought anyway!

Just finishing of the strip-down and clean of the v8 ready to rebuild it over the next few days. Just one question on the cylinder head bolts.... I've got the heads with 10 bolts and am wondering whats the rule with reusing the bolts?? Can they be reused or should I be getting new ones???? TIA

Well I've been busy stripping the top of my V8 down. Talk about oil leaks, surprised there was any in it! I'm not surprised as all the breather pipes were full of gunk! took the rocker covers of to find this........... Both sides were the same! Now they look like this Bloody core plugs...

Thanks mate!

Sorry, don't know where to put this but has anyone had trouble when searching for a topic or thread??? When I try, all I get is......???? LandyZone - Land Rover Forum - Error The search could not be completed. Please try again later. Been like this a few days now. anyone getting the same or is...

Thanks James, I don't know how I could have assembled it incorrectly, I followed the diagram and instructions very carefully. With the transfer box back in situ James, would it be possible to remove just the rear assembly??? Or is it box out again???

Hi Gazbo, I hadn't put the handbrake drum back on, I was just seeing if the xfer box worked without everything on it at first. The bearing I'm on about isn't a taper one its just the normal one as per the diagram below No.4. No Shim, just a spacer No. 3. and a circlip to hold it in place.

Hello guys, I think I've either done something drastically wrong in the rebuild or missed something or....?:(:( I rebuilt it back end of last year (then my back again decided it wouldn't play anymore) fast forward to last weekend when I was well enough to put it back into its rightful place...

Hi Steve, You need to put the correct key into the barrel to line up the wafers correctly inside (from memory) otherwise it won't come out, once they are aligned it should just slide out. Have a quick look at the tutorial in reply #10 from about 1min 50 onwards. I don't know what damage has...

***Update*** T'was the the actual starter motor itself, new one put on & it starts fine now :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Yes, did that whilst we had the starter off. I'm possibly thinking starter itself maybe goosed??? But I believe they are supposed to be bullet proof apart from the solenoid issue??? Gonna swap the battery out for a known good other one just to satisfy myself (Halfords tested the one on it, but...

Hi all, My friend has a TD5 which is very lazy to start and is now starting to P1$$ both of us off. Usually it starts with the flick of the key, but lately its took 3,4 5 turns to get it going. Sometimes when you try to start it its really slow at turning over, others it turns really quickly...

The idea is you use the EXSISTING KEY that fits the ignition, and make up the door locks & filler flap to fit that, No need for a blank key at all!!! :cool::cool::cool:

I did it the other way on my door lock, boot lock, and fuel flap. What I did was I took the locks apart and made up the little blade fin things up to fit the key. Once they all lined up I put them back into the lock cylinder. I needed a few of the fins as spares but after a lot of buggering...

How can you tell if it has OAT coolant in it??? Does it look different / smell different??? How are yours suited to LPG? any issues??

Already got a D1 V8 & used to have a P38 4.6 so it doesn't really bother me :)