When warm does it run fine on lpg?.

Need to check for leaks on all the lpg pipes using soapy water, tighten all clips etc, before you spend any money. Almost certain that the system is running lean. Worth checking the large pipe between the MAF and plenum for holes, and tightening the clips. You can also try adjusting the power...

First thing is to flick the switch so that the vehicle always runs on petrol. If it runs fine then the problem is with the lpg system. If not then check for a spark. Assuming that petrol is getting through you should be able to smell it, and hear the fuel pump doing its job. Its also possible...

The fuel system is pressurised so don't do anything until you have disconnected the fuel pump relay under the drivers seat. Run the engine until it cut's out. Depending on age, could be the fuel hoses so replace them. Only other thing I can think of that's not obvious is the fuel pressure...

PM me with the details of the lpg system. If I've got the leads and software we can have a look. The lpg software takes it's readings from the ECU so it might highlight a problem with a sensor etc.

Check for an air leak around the MAF unit, to change the plugs on the r/h side isn't easy without disturbing it. I had problems with a split in the hose between the MAF and plenum. MAF sensor is a fussy bugger.

Cost me £35 to have a tuning guy check out the sensors and diagnose my problem as a knackered fuel pressure regulator. Basically he checked the temp sensor, both lambda's, MAF, ECU and injector timing. Was running so rich that the ECU couldn't reduce the injector timing any further, and got...

Well folks, bought the leads and software for about 150 different LPG systems including Landi-Renzo. Set about tuning Rover and yippee no more problems. Just been out for the day with the dogs in the Brecon/Abergavenny area, and done 140 miles for £29.27. That works out at the equivalent of...

Well folks, dizzy is still working fine so far. Had the front shocks and a trailing link replaced for the mot (£125 inc parts), only to have Rover fail on emissions. £35 and a very interesting couple of hours later all the sensors had been tested and the problem diagnosed as a knackered fuel...

Had exactly the same problem, in my case it was the distributor. Not a cheap fix at £130+vat for a new dizzy and coil, but starts first turn of the key now. Have it checked out by a garage with the diagnostics, cost you £50ish but atleast you'll know what the problem is.

If the vapouriser is warm its probably working. Cold its not, simple as that. Pipes on the vap usually have arrows indicating flow, if the installer has got that wrong then surely the sytem would never work.

Found this link if it's of any interest:- Range Rover Classic Workshop Manual

Ta for the replies which are pretty much what I expected and agree with, but there are savings to be made which is why I posted. My local guy goes out of his way to find parts, halfords need your reg and if it doesn't come up on the system they are naf all use. Good as he is though, I'm not...

Not a heater hose mate, replaced those too. Internal bore is only about 8-10mm, don't know what it is.

Small diameter one about a foot long, connects behind the thermostat and then turns through 90 deg towards the bulkhead. Don't know how else to describe it.

Hi Guys, There are some major savings to be had on the likes of brake fluid, oil etc if you open an account. All you need is a business card which you can print yourself. Discount is variable, but brake fluid for example is less than £5/ltr, and a set of their "professional quality" spanners...

Don't know if its any help, but I've just changed the dizzy on my 94 RR 3.9. The original plug had 3 connections, but only 2 are used the outside ones. Tried them one way round and nothing, reversed the wires and problem solved.

Lpg won't freeze in the UK, its good for -20+. The pipes on my LT are rubber coated, if your's aren't its cheap to replace, but I don't think that's your problem. Check out the cooling system for air blockages, the lpg system needs around 27c to vapourise the liquid before it will switch...

Well guys, fitted the new dizzy, cleaned the plugs and fired up first turn of the key. Having to experiment with the timing cos I don't know what it should be, Haynes manual only covers upto 92. The electrical connections were different to the original dizzy, so will solder in new connections...

Its exchange mate, £25+vat deposit paid. If you'd like it at that price its yours, I'll work out postage at cost if interested. Sort of plan to keep it for a while just in case, but I don't normally sell stuff unless I know its Ok. Good news I guess is that everything else, ecu etc checked out...