I always drive like that and my clutches last a long time. Also the turbodiesel seems to like this. I change my driving style depending on which car I am driving, with a petrol car I slip the clutch a little bit more.

jack up one wheel, start the engine, stick it in gear and let the clutch out. The jacked up wheel should rotate. If it doesn't, sell the Disco quickly. Engage diff lock and let out the clutch again. If it falls of the jack your diff lock is engaged. This is about the quickest method.

You can blow the feed line out backwards and listen for fuel bubbling in the tank. Also your sedimenter may be blocked, if you have one. I had a slight air leak (at the plastic plug on the sedimenter) once, the engine would start and idle ok, but as soon as any power was required it would...

I can't see how you can get a grease gun anywhere near the CV joints, though you will most likely have grease in the swivels where the CV joints live. Greasing the prop shafts is very important on Land Rovers. If a UJ disintegrates (especially the front one) it will ruin your whole day. If...

No it is not easy. The bell housing is different. The gearbox is different. The engine mounts are different, but that at least is easy to fix.

And if you lower the combustion temperature the fuel will not burn 100% so you will lose power and need to put your foot down to compensate. Isn't Nox what Viagra is made of? (no chemist, me)

We also replace the EGR valve itself with a straight-through piece of pipe welded to a laser-cut bracket (the one with 4 bolts). Dunno if it makes much difference but it looks better.

I have been wondering about replacing the wires instead of the loom. I can see it will work, but we just don't have the time to do it in the workshop. Luckily the genuine injector harness costs only half a leg :D Surely you don't have the EGR connected?

Injector failure is extremely rare, which is lucky. You really should get the thing onto a computer. If you come here we'll do it for free :) But we are not a stealer and believe in customer service. I would be wild guessing if I tried to diagnose the fault. Do yourself a favour, look...

To answer your question, yes, the TD will go in a Disco. I know someone who did this just for the same use as you want.

Some people also say that it is better to run the engine close to the low mark rather than to the high mark. But then you have to check it very regularly.

yeah, sounds about right there for a 300tdi

not a good thing. Best idea is to drain a bit out

What you have to be careful of with Tdi heads is not only the valve head to face distance (as above), but also the protrusion of the injectors. If you reface the block / skim the head too much eventually the injectors hit the pistons. Although I must say that in the engines I have seen where...

I wouldn't touch a 200tdi because the gear change is rubbish. Also it is harder to work on (esp changing cam belt).

The problem you have with the Disco is that the caliper requires two inlet pipes. The 110 caliper (which is fine on a 90) has only one inlet brake pipe. About the RR LSE I can't say.

The round thing is NOT a non-return valve, though they do act that way when they get blocked! Yours is OK. I would reckon your head gasket is still leaking from the evidence.

Some TD5s whistle out of the exhaust, others don't. I think the max boost is 1.2 bar if you can check that.

Don't look at the gauge at night - Defender gauges often rise with the lights on. This is caused by bad earthing of the bulkhead to the engine.

And you will need a special diesel gauge when measuring the compression. At best, a 300tdi will give 24 bar max, which is ~350psi. Don't try it with a petrol engine gauge!