Solenoid contacts in the starter motor? It seems to be a common problem and there are kits available to repair them on Fleabay for about a tenner. It was the first repair job I ever attempted myself on the Disco and it was actually quite straight forward to do. The contacts were shot, hardly...

Bloody ell, it was a fiver at Halfrauds LOL

Sorry, that was me being lazy! I should have said WD-40 Specialist Penetrant. I couldn't find any Plusgas locally, only this stuff.

I've got the EGR removal kit to do so thought I'd give the exhaust manifold bolts a soak of WD40 for the next few days before attempting the removal at the weekend. Bare in mind I'm at the novice beginner stage so may ask stupid questions. :rolleyes: I've looked at the how to on discovery2...

Yes it was a bit but I couldn't be without the steering wheel controls, it learns from the original remote control so can be used on most iR systems.

Did mine last week, for the few quid the new gasket cost I didn't think it was worth not replacing it and didn't want to have the cover off only to find the old gasket was shot. There's not a lot of clearance at the back but was recommended to use some gasket compound to hold it in the cover...

There is one other option if you see something that isn't compatible but has infra red on it. My JVC had no jack or socket output for steering wheel controls but it has got iR on it so I fitted one of these. I've run the emitter to the bottom corner of the window control panel.

I've posted this to two current sound proofing threads. When I changed the HU and speakers in mine I wanted to improve the bass response from the doors so to give them a bit more mass I used Brown Brothers sound deadening sheets from Partco. It's like a adhesive backed lead sheet about 1 or 2mm...

I've posted this to two current sound proofing threads. When I changed the HU and speakers in mine I wanted to improve the bass response from the front doors so to give them a bit more mass I used Brown Brothers sound deadening sheets from Partco. It's like a adhesive backed lead sheet about 1...

Is that the small sawtooth thing? I've been looking for one as well after someone hit my offside mirror and it snapped so if you can find a source please update the thread! Like the idea of 3D printing one, sadly beyond my capability at the moment but roll on the invention of the replicator.

So are mine, I learnt the hard way during a radio weekend what happens when some 4 guage wire shorts across a lorry battery and there's no fuse. There was a lot of smoke and not a lot of insulation left on it. :eek:

If the amp has a fused power lead you might want to fit another fuse as close to the battery as possible especially if the existing one is inside the cab. Just gives a bit of added protection if the supply cable is shorted prior the original fuse.

Changed the towels underneath the sunroofs.

Did it depend on what spec stereo was factory fitted? Ours has the seperate amp under the seat and three way speaker system with back door subs. Removing the factory fit HU definitely left that gap, it's the only part I've ever bought from the dealer. :p

You might want to add part number FHY100290LNF. It's a the facia finisher that clips in under the replacement head unit to fill the gap left by the Din + a bit sized Landie stereo front panel.

Try powering the head unit from a seperate 12V supply, it will determine if the noise is coming up the power line or being radiated and picked up by the aerial. Have you powered the aerial amplifier? TBH I'd be surprised if any car radio, no matter how cheap requires an amplifier on the aerial...

Mine are all cracked and splitting round the edges as well as turning green so having got this far I think replacing would be better than reusing. I've ordered some nylon hole plugs designed for bike farings that should fit so I'll see how they look in place of the bars before ordering new pads.

Ordered some cleaner for the MAF and MAP sensors so I can do them at the same time as removing the EGR. Discovered the correct part numbers for the roof bar gaskets on my version of D2 and bought some locking hole plugs as I might just leave the bars off when I fix the sunroofs.

Is it as bad on FM as it is MW? Maybe the built in alternator supressor has died? Check for good continuity between the bonnet and the rest of the bodywork. Does the interference stop if you are in gear, driving along and take your foot on the accelerator? If it does it'll be the diesel...

I spoke to my local dealer today and they confirmed there was a change to these so needed the chassis number to get the correct part number. The four gaskets used on mine are CAJ000020, CAJ000030, CAJ000040 and CAJ000050. Google results look promising but blimey, £27 for four sticky back...