If you are sure the solenoid is opening??Loosen injection pump inlet banjo and with ignition on-pump lift pump to prime fuel to injection pump-retighten banjo.Then loosen return line banjo(back of pump)and pump again until diesel flows.... this way you should have diesel all the way through the...
Well my second year of my TD5 on 100% bio is just about up-no problems encountered what so ever on bio use, this will be my last post on bio in a TD5,as if I were to have issues I think it would have shown up by now.
I also had her re mot'd today which she failed on inner wing welding,but...
I run my TD5 on 100% bio,and have done for the last two years,without issue.BUT I make sure my fuel is to the highest quality.Some say bio is no good for TD5's,but this has not been my experience.The cost savings for me have effectively paid for my TD5 purchase price,and is cheap motoring up to...
F2 is good and have fault logged "no airflow"so think it is just MAF that is gone(I have a MAP reading~100Kpa-my mistake).
Try the BMW you suggested on the other thread?
Do I need a MAF?(What is the benefit?)-goes like stink anyway,but does run better on bio than derv,maybe extra Oxygen in bio...
My bio costs 15p per litre-all in including power and chemicals,but not my time-you do the maths.I passed break even point over the TD5 purchase price sometime last autumn.
presumably you have checked the oil pump bolt,and was the engine overheating when the knocking started?If it overheated the head gasket could have gone too or head warped or worse cracked-sorry to not offer good news
Think you will find it will be ok now if no more "odd" goes in the tank-next door sounds quite an example-can't you get him/her to at least replace the Chicken as their dog killed it.Hope all goes well now mate
Might be worth draining your tank,if "other stuff" has been going in there-so probably not lift pumps dying on you,more likely that lift pump has been pumping a non fuel liquid,and once back on diesel again,works fine-keep the padlock on :)
Sounds like a plan Mark,will follow your progress.Incidentally I wonder if the 15p is more prone to "injector head cracking" due to higher injection pressure vs the older 10p,if not set up dead right?
Only takes an hour or so for sump off ,bolt out-new bolt in+let loctite set for a bit-then sump back on-new engine required if bolt comes out far enough to let sprocket rotate,without turning pump-I would do soon as personally
Have you checked the integrity of the oil pump bolt in the sump?I did mine for peace of mind soon after purchase and found mine was coming undone-new bolt ,loctite and done up tight
Just recently got a Nanocom (Thanks Garrett) on a LZ multibuy ,and finally got it plugged in y'day.
Reading the live data I am getting zero on air flow and also zero on turbo pressure.(engine is running ok and turbo is spooling)
Presumably this means both the MAF and MAP are dud or need cleaning...
Thanks Garrett-got mine and extra thanks to you for all your organising,and efforts to keep us informed throughout the process-not least for re-boxing the units to ship out to us.We all owe you a beer
Tis a good idea to fit a bit of clear tube from filter outlet to injection pump inlet,so you can see if any air bubbles present in fuel line-if there is air,you have to find where it is getting in and deal with it
I would check one last time that the pumping side is connected to the filter feed,and suction side is too the tank-you get odd results when on wrong way round,but engine still runs as injection pump has powerful suck