Hi, I didn´t change all what you had done, but recently I start (my wife) to have this "nightmare". One solution that I found, is sometimes the fob1 don´t open, but the fob2 open, and vice-versa (it´s not a fob problem, I swap them and the syndrome still happens). Next time try with the other...

Thanks mickwall, I recently start to have, what your are talking about... Did you had also the "syndrome" of the car opening/closing the doors, while driving?

In 5 years (+- 70K km), never need.

Hi friends, I receive Monday, a LUK repset (box) for the P38A. (I buy in another place the DMF) When I open the box, I have inside a Valeo kit!??!? I send a email to the sellers and I receive this: "... If Valeo are the original manufacturer for this clutch then LUK will by the plate from...

Hi, From my last post in April 30 th, any clue? Thanks

Ok, 1) I check the rear diff. It will "spin" free: applying force in one wheel, and with other wheel "locked" and reverse. Using a jack, manually spinning the "joint" (where the rear prop connects)in differential, both wheels move, if I block one wheel, the other continue the movement.... I...

I Have my RR, from 2008. Take it to MOT in 2008,2009,2010,2011, and they never use Single Axle Brake, until 2012. They use always a "machine" on the floor, then brake.... I will try today to check the rear diff and TB, and will inform... Thanks for all infos!!!

I have the prop shaft:D. If I manually move the front "axle", the rear move also or vice-versa. If I have a problem in TB, it will no spin... right? (remember that my Gearbox is on the floor, and language issue). Could the cause of the problem be in the rear Diff? And I am "going" in the VCU...

Hi friends, Sorry to talk about "VCU" again. First I must inform, that I have my complete Gearbox removed from the car. (The well know "duo":the DMF and Clutch:o). 1) So I can not test the VCU like already reported (jack etc....) Is there any way of testing it? (Last MOT, it was the...

Hi friends, Me too had for the 2º time the "fork" problem:mad:. Now it´s welded....

Really!!!!!!!!! :confused: Thanks, I will search deep to see "more" about this subject. (I rarely use the "tailgate".... and had noted that perhaps they need be "calibrated";they make a little noise on bad roads).

Hi merlin! Did you find/resolve the problem? In my case, the problem is now every time I run the car:mad:.

Hi! @mbm, don´t work here in Portugal, as a replacement viscous. (You can use it like a SOS issue, but not like a replacement). Even "dedicated" electric fan will not work. The RR could be smoother, do more mpg, but ....... @datatek can you send the wiring? Thanks.

I had the same problem. I fix the problem, with a new parts in the alternator, (sorry but I don´t know the English name for that), but, I don´t have the +-14,00 Volts. After that, the problem dissapear, in my case. The RR is now not a daily car, so the problem is back, but only in the first...

wammers, nobody says this happens. The compressor should run, until you have +- 10BAR or 150 PSI. If the front raise with compressor running and go up than normal height (like datatek also reported), the ecu stop the compressor and level to the correct height, then the compressor start again...

How do you pump manually? By software? or directly with 12 V? I think your problem is the temperature sensor or a bad connection in the compressor (electric part).

Wammers, your are right, if everything it´s working right. Believe me, I had my RR "dancing" in the red lights, (going up and down only the front). I try to find the solution in the web (could be a bad sensor, bag, BV etc....). Then I found somewhere, if you have the "dance" the problem was in...

Wammers, can´t help you, with that but I think it´s the one witch is in a "different" position... or perhaps not, but I remember, we have a NRV that have more "damage" than the others ones. Don´t try to understand Portuguese:) see the photos : (Photo 7 ) www.ForumLandRover.ORG :: O Portal...

See if you hit the brake the up and down stop, for example in a STOP or red light, or open the door... But the best way is to wait until the compressor stop(door open), then select off road position, after that select normal with door closed. If the RR start to going up and down, check if this...

Don´t forget to bleed the modulator ( it´s easy). I run 3 years with air in that.... I can´t believe the air that was leaving from the "master" bleed:eek: