Wasn't the Freelander the ram raiders car of choice back in the day? Seem to remember it being mentioned on one of those "police camera action" shows. May be the residual high premiums due to that.

If it's tight as you say the test is probably moot. Mine was stiff when I got it, didn't seem as bad as you describe yours but it did feel like I was reversing with the handbrake on. Since swapping the vcu for a new one it's all ok, but inevitably some strain has been put on the ird. In my case...

I haven't done the conversion myself, but I think I read that it needs some cutting of panels to make it fit. Doable but not a straight swap. The light wiring may need some adjustment too. I think "diesel do" did done do it...

Location may be the issue as I pay about £200 for mine parked on the street (with an accident as well).

That's more like it, I didn't change my flywheel as I was out of funds. It would make sense to do all at the same time but if there's still life in it, it should be ok for a while longer.

Who quoted that price? When I first got mine I needed a new slave cylinder and clutch (and a couple other jobs) and it came to about £400 from my local Indy. It'll cost less to repair than to mess about with other boxes (most of the cost is labour anyway).

Nice, I like that it's mostly hidden and more of the bumper is retained.

Nice so far, good to see someone making something rather than writing cheques.

A word of warning - I got a pair of flip keys the other day and today I got a duplicate key cut (same song and dance "weak metal, wrong profile"). The duplicate I had was one with a plastic handle but you want an all metal one like JRNORWAY used. The plastic ones only have a short stub after...

Interesting, my existing keys are looking a bit banana like. I did a similar conversion for my old VW van, but that was a remote locking kit which came with flip key remotes. Same sort of thing though, get the blade cut (I used timpsons in my local tesco's) and swap the transponder chip over...

The boot on the freelander 1 is a bit odd compared to "regular" cars. As above, make sure all doors are unlocked by either fob or the drivers door lock - the drivers door lock is the only one that will unlock or lock the car. The keyhole on the tail door is only used to raise the rear glass...

Good for you, unfortunately I have nothing to offer but good luck in this.

Swapped my old 6" halogen spots for a single 72W LED bar at the front. Just need to check alignment next time I'm working nights. Also trial fitted my homemade "G4" roof light bar. So far so good.

And she passed her MOT. Couple of advisories for handbrake and track rod ends. Going back in in a couple of weeks for those.

Dropped it off for its MOT. Have a feeling it'll need drop links or bushes as a front end suspension knock materialised last week - love it when that happens...

+1 on VSR. Had one in my old van keeping the rear battery charged. No need for a separate charger - the alternator is enough. But I would still take an ignition feed to the rear. I've not got a 2nd battery in mine but I've fitted a 12 way fuse board (Ripca), 6 are permanent live and 6 are...

My '02 TD4 gets about 32mpg on my usual urban commute (7 miles each way, mostly 30mph roads but a short run down a dual carriageway). This was driving like a saint, but even with a bit of a heavier right foot it returned just about the same. Did notice an improvement (before I started tracking...

Don't know for sure but I'd take a look at your engine mounts, if only to rule them out.

I read the TD4 doesn't have swirl flaps, just the variable vane turbo. I have a TD4, so yeah I'd say it's a nice engine and general service parts are still reasonable considering its BMW derivation. But I must say if I didn't have this one I'd look at the L series. I've run diesels so long I...