Can anyone shed any light on my issue please?

The push fit valve into the bag is not self sealing - the air would be forced out under the weight of the car if you tried to hold it wit your finger. Better off doing it from the valve block. Wouldn't escape out of the bag once connected to the valve block - unless you have a leak!

Anyone got any calibration blocks i could borrow? Mine has started doing a dance! Calibrating with a nano com

New Shocks as well then ;)

You could fit short length of 6mm line into the valve block with the 1 way valve fitted - fit a bag and replace with air line for the bag - turn on compressor and let bag inflate. Once turned off, solenoids denegerized (system sealed). Repeat. Works in my mind. Maybe!

Got an issue with mine at the min - vague and wandering - in particular when in going straight - and very intermittent wobble when going in a straight line. (Tracking done, wheels balanced tyres inflated before anyone picks me up for school boy errors!) New track rod and steering damper, drag...

Valve block is sealed until solenoid is energised - so you could try buying standard 6mm airline non return valves as you do one at a time.

Follow as per rave mate - needs to be in the air lock to lock to bleed - if it's still feeling loose I would suggest check box adjustment (roll forward 3 lengths of vehicle to ensure wheels straight) - but if it was ok before then should still be ok !

I'd agree - check your battery connections and earth points (disconnect + clean) - battery earth off first

If the stud starts spinning with the nut (and the torx head is rounded like mine was!) pry bar on top and get a mate to bear down on the track rod - just in case !

Don't turn an assembled engine over in the incorrect DOR..a little jolt yes, not 3 turns!

Sounds like you haven't fitted it correctly/upset the key. If the RF doesn't read the key (as its dead - not sending out any signal), you won't be able to start the car.

Check your battery (car) first - should be above 12v. The battery would have been disconnected as per any procedure with electrical components (the alt) Your rf receiver isn't getting the signal from your fob - check you have a good battery (in the key - as it sounds like is isn't), make sure...

Would suggest you replace with correct fuse - there for a reason o_O

Check if your crank sensor is seated correctly

Ant what pre heating do they have on them? I know my TD4 had glow plugs but guessing these may have moved on to preigntion heaters in the manifold. I'm fairly sure they have a fuel heater as well (clicks when on start up?).

Taken off my spare p38 in good condition (front better than rear) with plenty of life left. Rears will need cleaning up a little and I'd suggest ones seals. 40 for the lot!

Like I said - it suits me best and may work for others as it isolates the rf

Does it run smooth when hot ? Id say start simple. Check any pre heating fuel side the engine has on it and any blockages on the air side

Or remove fuse 15