Sounds like a 30th Ani edition http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-4-6-30th-ANNIVERSARY-RHD-FINAL-PRODUCTION-COLLECTOR-QUALITY-/171742413121?hash=item27fca54141:g:W~gAAOSwstxVHoJr

+1 or a p38 for 3-4 k and rest for works. L322 - If you are worried about maintenance cost and stretched to buy. You'd be very lucky to get a good example at that price

The engine Ecu Saint. The one we like to get remapped ;)

Ill point out something basic - did he have the engine running while trying to connect? If the main ECU has failed (i presume he means the EECU) then the car wouldn't start. Would recommend going to a decent indy as your "mechanic" doesn't sound up to much.

Wammers can i PM you details about my EAS need some advice please

Sounds like I'm on the right thought track then!

Thanks. Would you be able to take a picture + little info on the alignment tool please. Again I was going to take a nominal measurement between the old ball joints and then fashion a pipe to length to sit between them. Then mark a level point on the pipe from the seal.

What was the tool off eBay though? I was thinking of using a C clamp to remove and refit the ball joints

Just what I'm trying to find out now - i posted last night and no one has got back to me :( From what i understand if you leave the collet in place on removal, the new ball joint should sit at the correct height for alignment. Otherwise can cause the HS seal to fail (replace that while you are...

1) Yes - you need a press and the tool to fit the bushes (correctly) - anyone who has "forced" them in will have premature failure. I came to the conclusion that i would use polybush (radius and trailing arm only) as it is was the easiest option. For both arms job was around 3 hrs. One option...

Do you have a sunroof?

Need to replace my SH ball joints, wondering if anyone has a press i could kindly borrow to get them out? After reading a few threads on here - alignment should be ok if i keep the collet in place? Going to put new hubs on as well....since I'm in there! Any help much appreciated, Thanks

Think that was me with the EGR ;)

Not worked on tdv8 but have on tdv6. If it is same will have an egr on each bank. Worth having a look if they are blocked

Have you checked battery V and charged it up again? A short trip will not charge the battery. Where did he connect jump leads? Can mess up the ECU's if its earthed in wrong place.

They are made to OEM spec, but i compared them to my LR genuine when on removal, only discrepancy i found was the intake valve - the height difference meant i couldn't fit the clip - as you found out :)

The OE bag is bigger where the air intake is, in terms of depth, compared to and dunlop equiv. I put it down to LR esteemed quality control on the fittings :)

Thanks, adjusted as i said but the adjustment screw will only take up so much of the play. Got Pirellis on mine at the min with good tread depth and uniform wear pattern. New bushes all round (albeit radius arms are polybush as i couldn't press in standard bushes). They have been in for 2 months...

HAd that issue with not fitting one side properly either. File the top plastic down gradually until it fits, ensuring the groves are the same! 20 mins to file down properly. Just do a little at a time and try and refit.

Im happy with the balancing - there is no constant vibration and doesn't worsen with speed. Alignment has been done twice, checked myself with optical gauge after as well - no defined pull to one or another, just a "wondering" on the road (following the camber). Corners fine, just in straight...