take the bolts out the muds flaps and 1 little plastic clip under the mud flap on each side, take the scuff trim off the top of the bumper by lifting the inner edge with the tailgate slightly open so you can get your fingers in then slide it towards the front of the car then remove the bolts...

sounds like theres an earth missing, did you put the main earth back on at the back of the aircon compressor? try using a jump lead to go from the battery to the engine to see if it help any.

why would i be sarcastic, i just told you what the button was for. damn, some people a.:confused:

its fairly simple to use realy, i always flush the system a few times before useing it to make sure all the antifreeze is out first. run it for three days with it in then take of the top and bottom hoses and get as much water out the block as you can (i use compressed air to blow in the top...

it is for access but you can use it for telling the car your going to stop aswell, if your doing less than 50mph and are stopping within a few minutes you can press it and by the time you stopped the car it will be at access height slowly lowering as the speed reduces. very clever system.

the motors alright because its running, the problem is the seal. buy a kit of ebay, theres an uprated one from the netherlands for 40 quid. i used this kit a few times with very good result, quick delivery from them aswel. make sure to buy the kit not just the seal.

thats^^^^ brilliant stuff, i used it on several engines where customers couldnt afford the repair so opted for irontite. the oldest being an old v6 granada, i did it 6 years ago and the old girl is still going (falling apart around the engine).

is it rev related or speed related, if you use it in manual/sport mode does the flat spot happen at a certain rpm or only at 50mph in top. at 50 mph the torq converter locks so could give the impression of a flat spot momentarily i suppose.

Check the engines on BMW oem for the 325 or 525's if you dont believe me. im not saying theres not two flange sizes, im saying there not a coded pump. the systems not canbus so no codes are used between ecu and pump. the flange size i have yet to experiance, i have got a 325 engine to fit in...

i presume this is a td6, on top of the engine at the back is a breather system housing which has got a filter inside. the unit is supposed to be changed annually and only costs 30 quid, thats most probably the cause of the pressure build up. get it changed and see if that helps the smoking issue...

if the glow plug light comes on when starting it after the engines up to temp its either got a hot start fix box on or the temp sensor is unplugged.

in all honesty i have never come across the problem your having, the last pump i changed was taken from a vx omega and it went straight on the range rover like all the others. i got an engine to fit from a 325 in a range rover over the next few weeks, if i remember when changing it i will whip...

i hate to burst your bubble my friend, but i fitted several pumps to customers range rovers and one brand spanky new one to my own and never had to code any of them. the only elecrical part of the pump is the fuel quantity control, the bottom end is still of the old design with the basic stop...

look in a rover or mg, there the same. i got one out a rove 45 for free, works perfect.

defo available mate, not essential though. just means you need to hold the box inline till you get a bolt in.

i had the same problem on a customers car, there is supposed to be dowls there. ring up your local stealers and order some replacements. check the mounting tube before fitting the new flex plate, if its slightly damaged they advise changing it so the flex plate sits completely central.

there all the same, they only have coloured bands on so you get them in the right place when replacing them as a complete set.

the diesel pumps aint coded, there all plug and play so to speak. unless the pump on your replacement engine is knackered changing it wont make the thing start.

a number of faults will be shown untill to cycle the steering lock to lock after a battery change or disconnect, have you already tryed do it?

yep, both sides mate. only one was sticking though, but for the time it takes you might as well do both.