Press and hold the middle light switch for 3-4 seconds. A message will come up 'interior lights enabled' or something like that

Certainly sounds like dirt or damp (hadn't thought about that) so the airline trick should see to both. Don't blast it too hard though otherwise you could damage the delicate laser assembly. Or even use a hair dryer on an extension lead!

Could get a rogue reading but try it anyway. Swapping fuses is easy though. At least that would be something ruled out and you then go further. How about the other faults? Cruise control and door locks?

Forgot to say, I was allowed to retain my old unit so it could be in line for a new brush box/ regulator too then I'll have a spare! Should also have said I checked all my leads and connections first, they were all good so the replacement unit was actually after all that was done.

Take the cartridge out and give the machine a gentle blast with an airline to remove debris and dust. Clean the connections to the back of the remote unit too. Are you getting a 'thump, thump' when you change a track or any of the sound settings?

Snap! Fortnight before Christmas, needles bouncing and same faults. Stuck on my spare battery and checked outputs etc. 14 Volts running so all ok. Thought it was just short running pulling the battery down. Less than a week later, same again, checked outputs, 11 Volts and dropping. Alternator...

That's the way. Even take the whole thing off and check if it resists. Should resist both ways. You'll feel if it's goosed.

I would like to get ours back to flashing indicators but the local garage here who actually has a testbook can't work out how to do it!

The screen heaters are very delicate and are sided as you will have found. Even when both sides are working there are usually some of the wires not working which gives you stripes. If the whole side is gone it does look like the fuse for that side. Checking the resistance is possible but fiddly...

There are three settings, indicators, sidelights or nothing. We have two P38s, both flashed indicators when first bought then after a while one started (and still does) flashing sidelights and the newer one is in stealth mode i.e. nothing flashes but both still lock etc. The pest about nothing...

One (or more) of the blend motors or the HEVAC unit itself. Sure way to check is to plug in to testbook or the like to see which is putting out the wrong or no signal.

Check the steering damper while you're down there too.

No, you are in the right place but it's often worthwhile to do a search first. All of the problems you have are well covered. In fairness though they are quite common. Briefly the screen is covered by two separate fuses as are the seat heaters but usually you find it's the seat heating...

CV joint or wheel bearing. If the joint then it can be noisy for long enough however if it's the bearing change it asap. If the car was cheap then it's good value even if you have to spend a bit. Plenty on here who are pro TD, others prefer the TD4 and then there are the petrol ones which people...

As I said in the last post I could could be leaning towards fuel delivery as the coils I'm sure each go to two cylinders on either side so if your prob is all down the one side then one side is not getting fuel. The sensors each control a bank of cylinders left and right so what you could do is...

Bit of a coincidence that it's all down the one side though, like I say I'd suspect leads and plugs only if both sides were showing faults. By all means do the plugs (platigumfs or standard) and leads too so it's entirely personal choice. When mine went all misfiring I changed the plugs to...

The coils on your car are at the back of the V and actually down the back of the engine. (The slightly older Gems model leads poke out the top at the back).They are difficult to get at and what you must not do is take off all the leads at once - even to one of the coils. Note down which one goes...

TD4 all day long. Remember the Freelander is a heavy car with permanent 4wd. The 1.8 engine is a straight lift out of an MGF which is a development of the 1.4 from a 1980s Maestro.

I'd be changing the coil pack for that side first. Or even both as they aren't that dear. I don't have lpg but did have the cat damaging misfire faults, changed one coil then three months later did the other one. You have the Thor engine with platinum plugs which can take their toll on the leads...

Just take it apart slowly, one clip at a time. Once you are in peel back the plastic and look for one of the rods dangling. It could just be a clip off and needing refitted.