The dual mass flywheel wouldn't judder as such, more of a single jerk or dunt on take up although I suppose depending on driving style etc it could. In any event there is something wrong in there. Sounds like a cheap clutch kit, poor fitting or some combination of both. Oil/ fluid contamination?

Does the button go up and down from the inside?

Been busy with work and not near computer. Have a look at the actuating arm, it can stick or bend giving poor travel. Then it's the slave cylinder which can give out then lastly the clutch fingers themselves.

Absolutely spot on. You'll get away with the Airbag light on though. Looks like the tester was confused. Look at any MOT station and there will be a chart on the wall describing the light sequence for ABS etc.

70% minimum VLT for side front windows. Even standard untinted glass is 90% so the so called 'legal' 30% tint isn't actually legal!

TC is only an assist, not a 'get you out of mud at all costs' clause. It will work on so called normal slippery surfaces like a Focus or an Astra, etc. Seems like it's working fine, the conditions just got the better of it. Even a Range Rover will sit and spin if the surface is icy enough - been...

The garage you bought it from is talking twaddle. The Freelander clutch is not heavy to operate and should feel as light as an 'ordinary' car. My other half is half your weight and more than a foot shorter and has no probs operating hers. Your clutch is needing attention.

Yikes, mines getting fixed today under warranty. Wonder what will go on. It's a front one too.

Is the clutch travel unusually stiff once it does 'feel'?

Sounds normal then. Same here but was only on for a short bit. 70 mile run in 9 degrees got things hot enough for it not to be on for the return trip.

Once you've done one its the same for them all. The plastic head breaks off leaving the body in the metal sleeve. Drill out the innards taking care not to go too far, hammer a small narrow punch between the casing and the hub, squirt with thread freeze or other penetrant, wiggle, hammer, squirt...

As was said do you have a rear prop shaft? A lot of them get taken off due to VCU problems leaving you with a 2wd car which will sit happily in a mud hole all day. Of course you could have a problematic diff set up somewhere anyway. Have you had the car long or experienced these problems before...

Sounds more mechanical than anything else. A pure guess to get you started would be the sudden reduction in wheel size on the tyre being punctured has upset the box somehow because of the sudden deflation and the knock on effect of that wheel having to go faster to keep up. (Smaller...

And a good mechanic (or if you must, a fitter) will put the new end on in the same place as the old one without any need to set alignment. After all everything has tolerances.

You'll find it won't be off until about March/ April. The air temp may be high(ish) but the block temp will still be low. Add in the wind chill and quite a basic sensor then what you have is quite normal.

Probably an abs sensor or reluctor ring. I'm on the fifth repair in 4 years, about right for a Freelander. Another thing to check is the brake fluid sensor. The white thing plugged into the reservoir, I've had one of them break too.

You're kind of there. Cylinders are numbered from the front to back. 1,3,5,7 are on the EAS block side - Bank 1 2,4,6,8 are on the Expansion tank side - Bank 2. Whichever sensor is giving a fixed reading needs changed and corresponds to the same as the cylinder bank i.e. 1 or 2. Be...

At the end of the day did you ask for four wheel alignment or just the TRE to be fitted? If the latter then that's what they should have done. Anything more should have been cleared with you beforehand or explained that it may be necessary; and I bet they didn't need to change anything at the...

What always puzzles me is that someone always thinks they can do better on a weekend than a manufacturer who has invested millions in a design sometimes over a period of years. (Just have to look at the lowered Saxos and Lupos in any retail park car park on a Saturday night, man, you know, 'n...

So it was the lambda then. Bank 1 is the left hand or nearside. Whichever one of the sensors is not fluctuating is the defective one. Change it and re run the diagnostic. Remember there are different sensors depending on the car's age.