Try connecting a jumper battery and pressing the button!

.....anyway, seeing as I asked the original question, my front shaft is phased not unlike the picture uploaded by MHM however on reading further it refers to the classic and Discovery. Mine is a 2000 P38 V8 with cats (so doesn't have the fixed shaft). Not having taken it off myself does the...

That's a common leak spot. Small bore hose and clips that crimp up. Better with small Jubilees. Hose is prone to perishing there too so when you've got it off give it a good bend and twist to look for cracks.

...and the 2025 batteries for the remote. Don't get 2032 ones as they are thicker and will split the case if you force them.

The spanner reference illustrates it perfectly. Which end does the slide go - front diff or transfer box? (seeing as it's going to have to come off again anyway).

Probably been shoved back on any way so they could match the holes up rather than push the car forward a few inches to match them. Needs taken off again then?

It had definitely been done before I got it obviously with a cheap tatty joint as it had tried to force it's way out and as a result had worn away one of the bolt heads. It was probably less than 100 miles away from breaking loose and coming up to meet me from underneath. There was an odd bolt...

On the positive side you are in. Maybe obvious but how are the batteries in the fob? Does it's red LED flash when in the ignition or you press a button?

Just had a UJ replaced under warranty and still getting a faint vibe about 40mph from under the seats (wheels all balanced recently so not them). Had a look at the shaft and the front and rear yokes are about 30 degrees out in relation to one another. Should they not be symmetrical at either end...

Camera probably out of reach too.

The slave cylinder is inside the bell housing so you could be a while underneath. Check the actuator arm too, there is a bracket that can bend if it seizes. ABS sensors and reluctor rings are prone to failing in turn but check or replace the switch first. Check the brake fluid level too.

The one thing that stood out in this article was the reference to a call centre. Why, yet another mind numbing phonearound place subsidised solely by the paying customer. Who remembers the days when you went into the local broker, paid and walked out with a cover note then the certificate...

Remember what you are looking at is a 10 year old car and things will have had attention in that time. Buying an L322 at say 7 or eight years old might not yet have had all it's gremlins swatted! And it'll cost you more to start with.

I removed the handbrake pivots which were seized, heated them with a blow torch, dipped them in oil and refitted them. Working fine now.

I use this site to give an indication to what specs and quantities to use, Comma :: Home Page

plus a few electrical multi plugs.....

A/C sounds about right for the colder weather. Both ours do that too i.e. not much clicking on and off in the cold but more in the better weathyer. Both re-gassed last year and new condenser in one. Did you have the car last winter?

Unless you've bought a smoky old dog that rattles, shows every warning light and has nothing electrical working enjoy it. It's running just now, look after it and at least someone here will advise what to do if things go wrong. There are quirky things to look out for as well as faults and...

Probably needs all the brake bits dismantled, freed off and rebuilt. Do one side at a time so you have a reference from the other side when you forget which spring goes where! (Remember it's the other way around at the other side.) Does the handbrake arm move on it's pivot? Check that as well as...

Car's a bit new for most on here so probably very few had them apart yet. In any event you'd best get it out somehow otherwise the terminals could short out on something and then you'll have real fun. Can you feel it beneath the carpet or is it wedged somewhere? Lump of blue tac or one of these...