Unplug one and try putting a bulb back into the h4 connector and see if it still does it. Careful tho get hot extremely quickly. If it does or doesn't light up either way use a multi meter and see which pins are getting twelve volts out of the three with the ignition on.

There is this stuff. Rubberised sound reducing, rust stuff. http://www.frost.co.uk/por-15-rubberized-under-coating-spray.html I've not used it nor have any idea what it's like.

What size tyres do you want, if you want them to last for a long time you could consider getting van tyres there'll last ages but are expensive. How cold icey does it get near you, in winter all terrains are better than road tyres but tarmac tyres are better in summer. I put continental 4x4...

I've read about people just carrying drive cyclinders and a regulator to inflate tyres and when it drops from 232 or 300 bar just taking it back to the drive centre and getting it refilled. Or if you want to add a compressor and small tank, soda stream cyclinders might be an option if space is...

Mine had foldy ones two. I've heard some come with bolts in the brackets at each side of the rover then need taken out for them to fold.

I wouldn't be able to do that, my mind would be to paranoid that I would train the battery and the truck wouldn't start later on. For the sake of £10 I would get another battery from the scrap yard and run it off that or if it's just a radio a 20ah alarm battery.

I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and go for it I've been putting it off for months to be honest, I fitted the boot spoiler and wind deflectors she wanted yesterday and I had just finished and started on at me for the seat again.

has anyone taken the actual seat cover off to inspect the foam on the rear part of the drivers seat. (Not the seat base) I can feel a bar in the rear of the seat, I think the foam may have split, does anyone know how to get the fabric off the seat back to check the foam.

Not a defender specific guide but moog and Marty know there stuff. About the 3 minute mark.

Old video if you can get over the kids speak they do quite a good job of explaining things.

The local motor spares place has them that go up to 3.2 litre Diesel engine, I was tempted till I say the price, £149.99. Might get one after summer.

12v alternator and everything becomes clear, that's the bit I was struggling with.

I'm still struggling with this one are you sure that the altinator is 24v. It has kept me up most of the night.

Is this it do you think http://www.genr8.net.au/uploads/file/47.pdf

Sorry if this is stupid question, but do you have a 24v altinator fitted and both batteries are 12v?

After 2007 they have to be type approved or e marked, so you can't really diy them any more. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/429995/bull-bars.pdf

Just to throw a spanner in the works I agree full length to the battery is best. But I've seen winches supplied with and installed with big 450 amp Anderson plugs.

Is it the start motor or the solenoid that's gone. Did the start actually stop running when you let the key relax or carry on running after the engine fired up.

Why have you put a deposit down on something you haven't seen? If your tall then those seats make the 90 harder to drive as the seat base is larger and you'll want the bulk head removed. This is why I wend for the 110 the seat can go back a bit further.