Just read it myself and what i read was on a 99my which mine is, the actuator is operated via the vacuum hose, one of the hoses i replaced.:scratching_chin: And doesn't have an ECU! AHH right, they mean a 99my V8, Still, why would mine work when replacing these hoses? I didn't touch...

This all sounds very interesting, because before i renewed the pipes i had no cruise control, now it works every time. The plot thickens!!!

Both pipes are around 1M long and cost £2 each. And here they are:

Sorry dude, couldn't resist, i'll post em up later as i'm going out now for an hour or two. Watch this space.......

As promised, here is the pic of the replaced pipes. As you can see they were in pretty good shape except for an inch or so either end.

Certainly, i'll take some later on and post em for you.

If there are no leaks the pump has been blead incorrectly. When you turn the ignition on do you get a ticking noise coming from the pump?When bleeding the brakes you also need to bleed the abs pump, this involves switching the ignition on for four seconds then off for four seconds and waiting...

With the ignition switched off, pump the brake pedal 30 times, wait 60 seconds and press a further 4 times. System should now be depressurised. The accumulator is nitrogen charged at 80 bar and the pump creates 190 bar and increasing this with back pressure (winding pistons back) can cause...

Why thangyaw very much!

You can get away with it if only changing the padsbut when i was told of one that let go, the two osf pistons were being wound back at the same time with a g cramp and small steel bar. A noticable pop came from the top end and fluid started dripping through the engine bay, to the mechanics...

Cheers Matey, it'll be a couple of weeks so i'll let you know either way. ;)

When working on the braking system you must depressurise the system. If you didn't do this before you wound the piston back in you might have shagged the accumulator or pump by over pressurising it. You might get away with new seals if you is lucky if not it's a new accumulator.:( Check to see...

Well worth doing Rav as it takes very little time to do and the results for a cheap clean are well impressive. Nothing to be scared of just don't smoke when you do it.:flame: !

As luck would have it my local mechanic lets me use his workshop and tools so i do have access to a press and tools required, doesn't look too hard a job so might give it a go in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the offer though John, appreciate it.:clap2:

Is it an easy job to do? I don't mean the whole hub assembly as a dealer will try and sell you, i mean just renewing the bearing itself. :scratching_chin:

Hi Wills, didn't bother with the rave cd just got out me spanners and socket set. Removed the slam panel 4 x 13mm bolts and 4 x screws that the front grille is held in with. Turned slam panel upside down and unclipped the bonnet release cable and remove slam panel. Undid inlet and outlet hose...

You need to unblock the drain pipes, one either side. It is listed in the service schedule that it should be done on some services, don't know which ones without looking but when you do it grease the runners too. Should stop the leaks and keep it working nicely.

Had a couple of hours to kill on sunday morning so decided to flush the intercooler through. The sh1t that came out was unbelievable, Thick black oil that looked like guiness dregs. Three litres of parafin removed all the black oil deposits, then left a hair dryer in the inlet for ten mins. All...

No probs, found one at famous four £12. Cheers dude.

Tis true mine too were like baby shagpile. Anyway job done and no need to silicone the top edge as the foam seals were all nice and rubbery, like new.:D