yep - it's money well spent. You get the head with valves installed & cam rail. You have to pull the cams and lifters from your existing head and install them - and you need some loctite 574 to seal the cam rail. (oh you'll need to pull the studs from your old head - but everything you need...

Cheers Simon

Freelander 1.8 K-Series Cylinder Head LDF109380L – Special Offer for May 2013 | they still have them in stock - I couldn't find a better price Cheers Simon

D'oh! :doh: Cheers Simon

yes Cheers Simon

HDC + ETC amber warning lights is almost certainly a failed brake pedal switch. Check the switch - if it is the old style one then just get a new one and stick it in. The design of the old style switch is very crappy. Cheers Simon

fitted a DAB radio & a DAB film antenna. Cheers Simon

it just seemed to me that since a new head was only £310 it was worth just replacing the head - I was never going to have peace of mind with the old head re-installed & would have worried every time I drove it that I would get HGF. Maybe I will get some pics of the old head & post them Cheers...

like this :5bcheers2: when we put it all back together & it worked perfectly & I drove it home like this :frusty: after the MIL came on later that day like this :5bcheers2: after we made the MIL turn off (O2 sensor) like this :frusty: after the MIL came on again later that day like this...

more info needed - presuming you're running a K-series engine? Is the thermo located at the water pump or is it remote? Have you blown down the bleed tube to the inlet manifold to ensure the bleed valve is open? The bleed screw you are talking about is the one on the coolant rail that runs...

Ok, so maybe I didn't do all this today but I did it all in the last week so I'm counting it;) 1. Pulled the head & found it had been skimmed beyond tolerance so had to throw it away - but I found a brand new head for just £310 from a landy place in Norfolk. 2. Fitted a new uprated oil rail 3...

thanks for the pdf link. that blue connector isn't listed so I've decided it is just there to confuse poor saps like me - there's definitely no cable from the loom to plug into it. I also had the MIL light up on the dash with a P0170 code so I thought the ECU couldn't read engine temp & so...

here is a photo of the coolant outlet pipe on a 2002 Freelander K-series. I have just done the HG etc with the help of a friend who is a professional mechanic. When it came time to reconnect the loom I could not find anything to connect to the blue socket circled that comes off the coolant...

by the application of reason I have decided that whoever left the old thermo in is a dick & I have de-cored it & refitted it so now I just have the remote thermo in the circuit. Head gets back from the shop on Tuesday or Wednesday so by Wednesday evening at the latest I should be doing this...

thought so - pleasing to have it confirmed though, as I already took the core out of the old thermo and refitted the plate & seal in the old thermo housing so now it just has the remote thermo ;) Cheers Simon

thanks for that - here's my next puzzle: is there any reason for having a thermo in the original position at the water pump and a remote thermo - i.e two thermos, as that is what I found in my engine:confused: Cheers Simon

Thanks for the welcome. I did the VCU & replaced the brake pedal switch - no more warning lights on the dash ;) A mechanic friend is helping me with head gasket replacement - as part of this we took off the coolant rail & found a complete thermo in the housing to the water pump - this despite...

when replacing the remote thermostat, can the new thermostat alone be fitted in the exisiting remote housing or do you have to buy the thermostat and housing as a complete unit? Cheers Simon

given that in an ideal world what we'd all have is a fully restored pristine Series 1 and that the Disco looks (in my opinion) like a Welsh Dresser on wheels the Freelander seems a stylish entry level option - and it's blue :p Cheers Simon

So hello everyone. bought my first Land Rover a couple of weeks ago - a Freelander 1.8 on a 52 plate. Before that I had a cheeky little Sportrak but it was dying from rust in the chassis and the loom was disintegrating - it was too far gone for me to bring back to life on my drive so I had...