Haha that reminds me actually, my old man’s td4 pump use to leak and it went like a rocket still so your spot on there. just the one lp pump , it makes a racket but it was a cheap new one off eBay back along so I’m not sure that is the problem as I’m pretty sure it was changed to try to cure...

Will take some readings and report back. Not likely to be the pump itself nodge? Will change the o rings and see what happens. Theres no leaks anywhere it’s been left running before for ages in shed and never seen anything underneath

Hi, long story short . My gf had a freelander 1 td4 (lovely car, literally mint inside and out) we sold it on with a long crank issue (buyer aware) however we saw it up for sale and I fancied a project so I bought it back for something to do. I’ve just swapped the injectors for 4 tested ones...

Thankyou mate, disc on order :)

Morning guys, we swapped our freelander 2 for a higher spec one last night. Only the sat nav button on screen doesn’t work. is this due to no cd? Does it require one to run? Or is it knackered. Matt

I will give that a go, I had heard that the master doesn’t push in far enough but what’s thrown me off is all I’ve ever done before was 500ml bottle of coke half full with fluid and a bit of tube and about 10 pushes of the peddle and jobs a good-en

I’m certain it is but I just don’t know what to do about it, it’s had 3 masters. The original factory one, then a £40 eBay one, then a £60 euro parts one. Now it’s got the factory one back on because it was the best of a bad bunch. clutch plate definitely right!

Brief story, replaced the clutch on a td4 2004. 3 piece kit. End result was not by into gears so replaced the master, even worse. Ok maybe it’s poorly bled so we bled it for pretty much the entire afternoon and still notchy into gears, decided to buy a reverse bleeder. Even worse Decided...

I’ll Chuck the front tyres on back and see if it changes anything. All the tyres are continental and all worn exactly the same, it’s not vcu and soon as you put foot down the vibration goes, if it was vcu it wouldn’t make any difference I don’t think. maybe give the cv and wobble and see...

Thankyou fir your reply, would vcu issue not be the same for both left and right? There’s no tying up either on full lock so I’m pretty sure vcu is fine. cv is a good shout , proper weird one it’s got to be said, don’t cvs usually click on lock if knackered

Hi I’ve got a vibration when at road speed turning left only (kind of like the vibration you get when rear diff mounts are gone) but it’s only when turning left plus I’ve just swapped the mounts out today and it’s the same. Only happens when coasting so if you press the throttle it doesn’t...

Had a look today and there are no metal shavings around the crank pulley and to be honest there doesn’t seam to be any play in the crank (not 100% what I’m feeling for but you can’t rock it back and forth) Completely stumped

Can it be dropped in with the auto box attached?

Will have a look tomorrow and do the test as he left it at my lock up. Shame as the car is absolutely immaculate.

Good evening everyone, got a friend in need. He’s got a horrible noise coming from his td4 when revved or under acceleration. Told him about this website but he’s not too tech savvy so here I am. I haven’t a scooby but sounds rough. I have put a video on my YouTube. Matt

Surely wheel bearings are wear and tear items and not covered by warranty.

All done nodge mate, went ok to be fair. Both went in straight and without too much pressure so I assume they will be ok.

Got my bearings already, and they are currently residing with the veg in deep freeze lol smashed the old one out with the lump hammer, see how it goes tomorrow…. Fingers crossed.

Nodge, your bang on mate Ns front bearing shot! Take brake calliper off and spin the wheel.

Ok but why is the passenger side not loose but drivers is slack (seams to move very easy)