Hi Hippo, Just a fort? :scratching_chin: When setting up the pinnion in the diff there's a compressable sleeve that is used to set the bearing pre-load and get the mesh of the pinnion and crown wheel right. On the IRD could it be as simple as fitting a new shim to get your pinnion engaged a bit...

Hi, :welcome2: Download a copy of RAVE - it has a huge amount of info about the electrickery in the Fleelander (and lots of other LR products) its all in there. From memory the fob signals the receiver under top of dash that activates/deactivates the alarm ECU. That ECU has several other...

Sounds sus that fix? :scratching_chin: When you change the TD4 fuel filter it injects the system with a big chunk of air (as the filter refills) - it is designed to self prime as the fuel pump circulates the fuel back to the tank. When all the air is expelled the HP rail pressurises and off we...

Reckon Mantamad is on the money with this one - noisy hydraulic tappet. Try some wynns or similar additive or just another type of oil. Had the same on my K16 series and a change of oil (make that is) and it ain't come back yet. If the engine has done some ;) miles then when left for a few days...

Mount the split charge relay onto a spare stud under the ECU box, fit the feed via an in-line fuse from the spare 10mm lug on the battery terminal. :rolleyes: Run the charging feed inside a flexi-conduit (10mm) down the bulkhead and along the lines underneath and over the rear drive to the N/S...

Hi, The engine ECU will be a MEMS unit and they are coded with the alarm ecu as a pair. On my K series Rover they can be swapped out as a pair and you need either recoded or different alarm plips to match the new alarm unit. You can have another engine ECU unit recoded as a new pair but...

There is a water path down to the IRD for a cooler. Sometimes has a leak round the pipes going down there.

Annuvva convert!! Surprisin' what a big effect a little bit of bunged up fluff can have on the performance of such a complicated lump of metal. Do you think it could have been designed in at the request of the dealers to get business from worried owners and run up exorbitant bills for swapping...

All covered in the Haynes Manuwell and in the RAVE - free to download - many download links posted on here. The cams are different and both sets of documentation show you where they go. You need to look at the piccies and get the cam pins set right and work from there. :):)

AND totally invalid insurance if you have a prang and the assessor sees it before you bolt it all back on again!

Run mine underneath - 3 x 6mm CSA (3 off feeds) inside 10mm fexi conduit. All three feeds from battery (10mm lug there for the purpose) via a 30A in-line-fuse (1 unswitched feed) and voltage sensing relay (2 off switched feeds) mounted under fuse box against the suspension turret. There are...

Ming's yer man !!

Hi James :welcome2: You may get a better answer if you post in the Disco section :doh:

Don't sound like it should make any difference by improving the airflow but it does. Even helps get the MPG up a tad. If youre a 'green' then don't do it as you will be increasing the output of the NO4 with or without the bypass. Converted sceptic! :):)

Gone the other way - Defender > Discovery > Freelander - can't get used to the quiet ride and lack of transmission rumble and tyre noise. Like Willo says - you can only compare with what you are used to. It's certainly quieter than the low end hire cars I used to drive at work.

Bought an '06 TD4 manual less than 3 years old. Don't do many miles per year so it ain't getting worked hard. I expect it to last and to keep the major expenses under control by regular servicing. Don't think it's any worse that most other makes and better than some - you gets what you pay for...

Had a simmilar 'sudden' apperance of the stopping syndrome; Any or all of the following; Stcky or distorted throttle body. Sticky of maladjusted throttle cable. Faulty throttle pedal sensor. (on throttle body in Rover) Stcky AICV or not returning to calibration properly when engine turned off...

The attached will give you a feel for what's involved. :cool: Quite a few of the aftermarket systems are the same - made by TDK and badged. No problem declaring on insurance as a mod.:):)

Hi R1cky, As OP says it ain't easy! :scratching_chin: I did a lot of looking round for info on retro fitting the original set up and then went the aftermarket route. It all went in ok and uses original steering wheel switches and dash light, via a home made adapter box. :D It's been working ok...

When we first got our '06 TD4 Manual we drove down to the Alps @ between 70-80mph - certainly cleaned out the system but slashed the MPG. Now always drive under 70mph and get reasonable MPG - seems to get thirsty @ >3000rpm. ;););) combination of horsepower needed to accelerate the brick. Then...