With the v8 Rad, will it have to be a defender one or a disco one? Its just there's a couple on ebay and they both look a bit different Thanks

Ah that clears thing up. Cheers guys

Okay so its either a case of fixing the current one, a replacement original or v8. May be a silly question but is the oil cooler and inter cooler integrated into one unit for the 2.5td?

Photo's would be great. If I cant figure it I'll do as James suggests. Cheers

Well my radiator is not too happy at the bottom so I was thinking of replacing it so that I can be sure it'll last a while longer. Ones to fit the 2.5td that is currently in seem to be more expensive than the rads to fit tdi's. So I was wondering if its a straight swap, if not what modifications...

Pete, cheers for the link but I need push buttons as thats what are on my existing doors so I want to save the pennies where possible by reusing. Paul I'll drop them an email, thanks. Station House I'll also drop them one. Cheers guys

So my door frames are pretty gone, beyond being fixed with my welding ability. My skins are fine though along with the mechanisms etc so I was wondering where I could buy just the frames from? I cant find any on ebay, paddocks and the likes. Cheers

Hi, So basically the steering drop arm was not coming off so I attempted a bit of precision grinding. Unfortunately the precision part was absent so I ended up making a right mess of the end part of the main shaft; inclusive of both thread and splines. The rest of the system is fine so I...

Aha that that made me laugh. Crossmember is all welded in place and is looking great (bar my welding!) Thanks. I was about to attempt to make some my self so its a relief knowing you've got them! Do you reckon you could post the down to me? Cheers

So I've just finished welding a new rear 1/4 chassis including cross member to my landy chassis. I was wondering if anyone knows of a place selling or someone who could fabricate the rear mounts which weld onto the chassis that support the rear tub? As the old ones are rotten so I cannot cut...

That is quite interesting. I suppose its down to how long its in the hot dip for. Because its something like 500 degrees which is plenty to vaporize any water that will, given a long enough dip, bubble out of the dip. That's my theory anyway. Obviously if its a slack job, it might not be enough...

Hence why i said to a degree. Acid will remove most solids that contain oxygen, then the hot dip will remove any substance that have dissolved oxygen in, simultaneously sealing with the galv coat, thus there is a very very small amount of oxygen left available the rusting process to use. And...

Well you've not given me much to go on, however I've never heard of a Ray in my family. But its good to know someone else is supporting the Mowatt name!

Quite right, however so will a brand new galv one. Its a matter of time though. Firstly It'll be acid dipped so will clean the inside up to a degree, then the Galv dipping will coat the inside whereas other techniques of rust prevention will not so well and finally the cost is quite...

£160 up to 200kg. I'd imagine the chassis is close to that. Thats with South West Galvanisers.

So I am going to get my chassis done I figured it might be worth taking some other bits up as well. However I am not sure what other things so was hoping for some suggestions... Cheers

It looks like the copper option will be far cheaper. Funny you mention that flaring tool, i was just looking at one identical to it on ebay. Where abouts did you buy yours and how much?

In short, I have little patience so when the unions of the old brake lines were being awkward bastards, brute force and disregard for salvaging the old ones won. Now i need new ones. Do I fabricate new ones with lengths of copper brake pipe and spend a couple of quid buying the tool to add...

Cheers for the suggestion to use Pressbrake. Money should be in your account monday :).