Sorry looked like centre zero ammeter. In that case its broken. I have had several ammeters with spade connectors on rear from old ammeters circa 1960's they were only 30-0-30 Just googled part number which led to Smiths web site and listed as 90-110 voltmeter, tried to find wiring diagram but...

On yours I believe it is the lefthand relay at the bottom behind the righthand trim panel between door and pedals. In landrover Rave manual it is called ignition load relay K127

Its an ammeter not a voltmeter!!!!! It needs to wired between the battery after the fusible link and before the fuse boxes,

I had this on classic RR started fine cold but just wouldn't work if tried to restart after short stop. Hour later started as there was nothing wrong. It turned ot to be the "ignition relay" it came on but wouldn't pass any heavy current. This gradually got worse, when it failed completely I...

It looks like the wires for the winding have been worn through. There is excessive end float in the stator which has rubbed and worn through the wires. The bearings are probably gone, throw it away and stop wasting your time.

^^2 what he said alternator needs replacing, voltage regulator is fried probably from the terminal "floating" for a long time.

Looking at circuit on rave the power to this circuit is derived from Fascia use box fuse F14 and exits at connector C208/pin 15 going to instrument cluster Connector C222 pin 2 inside it goes to the lamp and an unknown component and exits at connector C221/pin 5 which is Brown/yellow wire. This...

I believe its residual magnetism that can make the alternator work without the warning lamp connected, but this can fade away and will need the wire connected again. Fix this first before taking anything to pieces. If you turn ignition on and touch the wire to ground the warning lamp should...

Check power connections to pump also, could be loose connector/ corrosion causing pump to only work intermittently.

Years ago I had RRC 3.5efi did the same, the pressure relief valves were known to stick open so with engine running there was just enough pressure to turn warning lamp off but it wrecked my engine (no gauge till too late) Try magnet (neodynium) use a polo mint type to fit to a threaded rod so...

As a jap import it does'nt have the alarm/immobiliser. The central locking was activated with 2 button fob. If it seems to be MFU check its not wet! a common fault is a leaky windscreen MFU gets wet and corrodes

The Green ones are probably for a LPG conversion and not standard

Thats correct to set initial timing but its possible to be a long way out as you cannot see where the trigger point is. I have always left distributer loose enought to move by hand and adjust it by hand a little at a time until it starts, once it is running I set timing correct with a xenon...

Thanks I have that manual. I think the warning lamp circuit on the tacho is controlled by the main srs controller I think its the bottom wires that go down. I will try and remove speedo and air bags and meter it all.

Hi does anyone have wiring info on SRS for disco 1 '97. I have no srs lights when I turn ignition on, Hawkeye cannot communicate with the control unit /ecu. I replaced control unit, the srs lamps are in Tacho which has been replaced (when I converted to MPH) a few times. After looking through...

There are bypass plugs for sale on fleabay the immobiliser part is called "spider" I beleive it is situated behind the heater controls

I've got Jap import, and all I did was swap speedo head unit complete. The importer had done the same as yours and swapped the dial face only.

Have you had a good look around RPi website? They have years of experience with rover V8's Some interesting article there that may be pertinent: cam follower preloading http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm

Cortina rear trailing arm bushes to put into kit car I built.

I just go to toolstation and get M10, or M12 threaded bar theyre only a few quid each.