Hi Jai, nice to see you're alive and well!! There are a few green lanes up this way but I have to say I've not done anything in at least 4 or 5 years. I'm sure if you put a shout out there would be folks around who know what's good and what's not up here. Anyway, if you venture up this way...

I don't think you understand this injection system. 14CUX needs speed transducer - it is part of the idle control circuit. The components of the injection system do not need to be synced to anything, the ECU isn't that clever. The only clever thing it can do is look at O2 sensors and apply fuel...

BTW you say you installed a new MAF. Have you checked the CO trim?

Have you checked if you have lambda control? if the O2 sensors are duff and the ecu isn't getting the right input it will go in to limp mode which is a really rich basic fuel map. If it is related to lambda control, it will be fine while cold and also at wide open throttle. Once warm it will...

The 14CUX hotwire injection system is quite basic and easy to set up and maintain. Some parts are difficult to source and are expensive, for example, throttle potentiometer. I would respectfully suggest you stop and cool off. Invest some time searching this forum there is so much information...

See post 10! The only other question is are you happy you have the plug leads in the right order and correctly routed?

O.K. then, if you jump over in to the V8 engines section and do a search for ignition tests you should find a whole load of threads and posts about ignition problems, misfires and no start. Don't forget that it may not be a component fault - check wiring and connectors. The connectors that go...

And your bottle if it's deep enough!

This happens from time to time. Lets get some stuff out of the way first. If there is no spark you might not get fuel because the ecu won't fire the injectors if it doesn't get a run signal which comes from the coil. I doubt it is the immobiliser because the engine turns over. Try listening...

I put a Kent H180 in my 3.9 Range Rover Classic. I don't bother measuring fuel consumption, it's a bit pointless. However, it seems to have more mid range power and overall, I would say not a bad way to go although I have read that for a 3.5, using a standard 3.9 cam is a good upgrade. As part...

Stripping the top end is just making work at this point because you don't know if it is actually necessary. Really you need to either crawl under it with the engine running and then check for exhaust leaks or if you have access to a ramp get it up in the air. You could also try listening to the...

Go with the easy stuff first. Discool is probably right. If you had cam/follower issues I would have thought you would know about it as performance would be poor. Slipped liner is a possibility but check exhaust first, hopefully you'll find it is just a bust gasket, easy fix but if on manifold...

Another thing to maybe look at is the alternator and battery. Both need to be in good order. Easy to check with a volt meter. Another check is to drive along then turn on heater fan on max, heated rear screen, main beam and any other large electrical load. If you get a misfire then alternator...

Just a thought - try unplugging the cold start injector. It's the one on the side of the plenum.

BTW, nearly forgot, interesting that at high revs no misfire. This points to lambda control problems because at higher engine speeds and definitely at wot the ecu ignores the O2 sensors.

A few years ago when I first bought my Range Rover I used to get a similar problem. I had the ecu tested, I had the air flow meter tested, apparently both were fine! I looked at fuel pressure regulator, distributor, ignition timing and anything I could imagine. Every test and check I did showed...

My RRC still has the Boge unit in place, it has leaked a bit and probably doesn't work. My original springs had become really tired and I found I could bottom out the rear end very easily so a couple of years ago I did a spring change, put red/white HD springs on the rear and standard rear...

You say running rich? Have you had it on a gas analyser? Anyway, sounds like quite an engine so it should be a simple problem. I suspect the issue might be the loss of the speed transducer, this may have caused a fault condition with the ecu so it has defaulted to limp mode which is a basic rich...

BTW nearly forgot to say, did you re-set the ecu after it popped the check engine light on? If you don't reset the ecu, it will run in limp mode which is very rich. This is O.K. if you drive everywhere with your foot to the floor, however, you'll probably maybe manage 6mpg and you'll kill your...

O.K. don't throw in the towel. This will be something stupid and probably easy to fix. The reason I say that is the engine itself will start and run suggesting everything is there - fuel, spark, bang. The lack of idle I suspect is the clue and the check engine light is the key. Unfortunately...