Right I think we have established that I have an axle body that was intended to have 24 spline shafts in it. These were the only shafts with seal lands on the shafts for the stub axle seal. Anyway, my 10 spline shafts fit. Mr Noisy is a 10 spline man and therefore doesn't have the dimensions...

Thanks Mr Noisy - that would be great. There's no way I'm going to run out of things to do tomorrow fabricating bits that don't quite fit anymore!! Mounting plates for the mud shields for instance took an hour today to cut and re-weld as opposed to 3mins to bolt on. Hey ho, all part of the...

Happily they are the right size. I had read about that issue but because it is the disco 1 axle they are identical save for the additional ridge.

Just building up the rear axle. I've replaced the axle on my 1987 90 (drums brakes) with a disco 1 rear axle - disc brakes uprated. However I didn't get the disco drive shafts so I'm using the old 90 ones. The only difference is a small ridge about 175mm in from the outboard end of the...

No probs. I agree on the starter motor front. I juts don't like the idea. With one that was really stuck it took me a whole day before freeing it but still didn't go down that route. Have you got the flywheel off yet - that can be fun and games too - especially if the water pump has been...

Usually if you get a ratchet strap and wind it round the fly wheel a couple of times and then back to the chassis and tighten it up this will hold it firmly enough for a breaking bar to release the nut. Don't go round too many times otherwise it will slip. Bit like the principle of the Capstan...

Anyone with any more thoughts on this topic? Ta.

I think I'm the first to find it. Gears still move freely on the shaft. I only found it as I was giving it a final clean and one end of the cross shaft dropped against the crown wheel! One circlip at each end - of course not doing a lot when its got a break in the middle. Sounds like I...

Am I to read something in to the popcorn?

Well I suppose it was inevitable! All parts cleaned, garage properly tidied for the first time in 3 years, and lots of new parts purchased ready to be fitted. Start on the front axle I thought. Forgot to buy the bronze bush and stub axle seal. I'll get them this week. How about fitting...

I've had trouble bleeding clutches in the past as the air seems to get stuck in the master and not come down. you just need to keep doing it and it will come right in terms of bleeding. There is no substitute in my experience for the old fashioned method - one on top one below. Open bleed...

At least I'm not the only one then Shifty. She wants red to match the engine and brake callipers! Apparently we are 'detailing' in red!! Thanks for the replies.

Just about to get some new bushes. SOme suppliers seem to do one or the other. Is there any difference between them or just a matter of preference? Ta

Thanks for the info. The only time I can find when it is suggested is if the crank bearings have been line bored (if you use an ARP kit or something). This might put the alignment out a little. However, I'm pretty sure mine hasn't been as it still uses the same bolts and the torque on those...

I assume Fanatic that means you are of a similar view to some of the others that have posted on here in thinking that its not necessary... Thanks for the help!

Hi, Thanks for the offer of a look - if I'm up that way in the near future I'll pop in. QUite a long way though for me if I'm not in the area! Any chance of a picture of the seatbelt mounts? Thanks, Jon

Not building anything special - just overly cautious given the problems that this can cause. To be fair I'm more concerned that something may have happened to the new block i've got that would mean that the bell housing is out of alignment. The bell housing and gearbox will still be in...

I can see the point in checking the plane of the flywheel but won't that only tell me if the flywheel is rotating in a plane parallel to the rear face of the bell housing? It won't tell me though (will it?) whether the bell housing is centralised to the centre line of the crank / input shaft...

Yup - I agree it should all fit together but I would like to check the alignment of the bell housing which is why I would like to check that it is dialled in correctly. The tolerances of the blocks, dowels and bell housing might well mean that the new block mated to the old bell housing might...

I'm quite a long way off this job as I've still to port the heads and build the engine up but I've been wondering for a while since I stripped it all down so thought I would ask! I've got a new short engine so not the block originally mated to the bell housing I've got. I accept its all...