I'm pretty sure the answer here is "Oh, if that's where you're going, I wouldn't be starting from here." but here goes. When changing the Drag Link I disconnected the steering damper. There's nothing which says "Wrap damper with special tool LR-XXX." so, of course it lengthens to full...

By hook or by crook we got there. For anyone else stuck remember the hole on the hub arm is the seat for the taper joint so it's flared at the top, the thread on the track rod will go in from a greater angle than you might think. Thanks for the help everyone.

Struggling with similar problem fitting the new one now. Can I just clarify: Do you mean twist the ball joint so it goes from _| shape to _/ (wrong way up I know but there's no "overscore" character) OR Do you mean twist the threaded bits so the ball joint comes at the hole at an angle? OR...

Cheers Wammers. It wouldn't re-seat and pinged out when I straightened the steering but it's off the car now. Wheels ended up at jaunty angles but I straightened one wheel with the power steering and one by hand (aggregate drive surprisingly easy for such a heavy car), will put new one on...

I've successfully replaced my Drag Link and have managed to split the taper joints on the Track Rod (TIQ000020G) away from the arms, no problem, so the TR is free to move. It's fouling on the radius arms so neither end will lift out. Car was on ramps but now on the ground... I was told to lock...

Excellent, thanks.

Another handy thing to know... I imagine you could also cause what cyclists call a "snake bite" puncture where some of the rubber gets pinched against something hard if you're running your tyres too soft. How do you inflate them? I have a BB Nanocom... is it best to do one corner at a time?

Fair enough... I'll get spare pants just in case :D PS I know for a fact the people who fitted the bags had one burst when they drove it out of the workshop :eek: because they told me :screaming_bug_eye_f They fitted a new one from a different source FoC obv. But I guess just after fitting is...

Good to know, cheers.

Cheers wammers! :tea:

Thanks everybody. Doing it tomorrow. Lovely bit of kit: Lemförder. Looked then up, seem to have a good rep.

Cool, thanks.

Mine has just failed with the same problem... the front to rear brake lines that is. The MoT guy said access looked restricted because of a "tank" getting in the way... EAS or ABS I guess. This doesn't seem to have bothered you... any idea what he was on about? I haven't gone under for a look...

Yeah bought a 19mm Draper on Amazon Prime, arrived yesterday, thanks.

Solid axle ...Doh! Cool tip about the stands, thanks. I'd rather look a bit of a knob than a pancake.

Cheers! There's something slightly spooky about trusting four rubber bags and I have the ramps, but nice to know the wheels won't splay and drop the car on me... I figured I was OK as long as the track rod was still on but wanted to be sure.

Quick question. Replacing the drag link (entire assy), can I do it on ground ramps or do I have to jack it and put axle stands on both sides?

I assume as everyone here uses LR part numbers I probably won't get an answer to my question? C'est la vie.

Back when I had the money to get other people to maintain my cars I decided if I'm paying £45/hr or more just for the labour I'd like to get the most bang for my buck and leave things better than standard. When I got my RS2 it wandered and banged about due to shot bushes and dampers. It...

I'm considering buying some Poly-Armour brake hoses for my P38. They don't seem to list them by application, just by sizes and connectors. Can anyone point me in the direction of some specifications (diameter, length etc) and any relevant terminology re: couplers/connections for a P38?