Thanks Steve!

Thanks all, back at it tomorrow.. I do have a RFBFH in reserve to attack the ball joint with. Thanks for the tip on the breather bolt, it did not look like yellow metal but I'll pretend it is. The diff looks and feels ok, I will get a gauge on it when it comes back from the blasters, but if it...

2 issues today.. The A frame ball joint needs replacing, and I can not get it off the axle. The boot is split. The 4 bolts that hold the plate to the axle are rusted round, if I could get it off and into a vise I would stand a fighting chance of separating the taper. I used a propane burner...

And drive flange end.

This are the halfshafts at the Diff end.

I went inside the rear axle today.. drive flange off, no arguments or broken bolts, only smugness at my younger selfs obsession at using copper slip at every opportunity. Not too bad in there. I scraped out the worst of it. I do not have a steam cleaner, and anyway I am loath to wash EP90 into...

Rear axle is off.. next session is to disassemble the axles, clean and inspect the parts, and slosh out the axle housing. Has anyone here got a tried and trusted method for cleaning 35 years of gear oil out of it? I was thinking of draining the old oil, then filling with petrol and letting it...

Thank you all for your replies.. good info! I will report back very soon once i have the axles disassembled.. I have never heard of removing the axle seal, or even that it is a 'thing'. Surely wrong lubricant for the stub axles? When I first bought it the previous owner had removed the axles...

I will update this thread as the work progresses.. but a major reason for posting this thread is to learn from the hive mind here. I know Defenders are most of the time straight forward tractors, and although I have a reasonable mechanical aptitude there are gaps and limits in my knowledge to do...

Front axle is off.. Over next week I will start to strip it and assess the innards. Then it is off to the blasters.. I still have some black epoxy paint for both axles.

Day 2. This is 800 miles and 8 months since UK MOT. Just wow! Gotta be 20,000 miles left in the pads at least!

Day 1.

Hi, I haven't posted much at all in the while I have been a member here, but I thought I would share this.. and maybe learn from the forum as well. This is a 200 TDi 1991 HiCap. It was my truck for nearly 20 years and has been an absolute workhorse throughout my time as a tree surgeon. I...

Thanks for the ebay link Kwakerman, but I don't want two hitches that don't work, just one that does. The one I have was an unknown quantity when I bought it off a land rover scrappy/ fixer upper. I'd rather know the devil I currently have. I just need some seals... Will try IFOR and Delta...

Mines a bit of scaff bar and a wooden wedge...

I have this... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27991552/Trailer/13127897zs.pdf And this... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27991552/Trailer/Technical%20Handbook%20Sankey%20Trailer.pdf But neither tell me what to look out for that might be bust, or where to get parts from...! How do...

Thanks Zeaphod, I'll try those contacts. Will post this on Military LR4x4 forum too. I've had it apart as far as I can go. Will post results when it's done so the next man has a head start...

Hi everyone. I recently put new 3.5 tonne axles and leaf springs and a hitch to my arb trailer. It had horse box running gear on it but it was crap, and the hubs were rusting through. I still need to sort the ram out to get it tipping, but the modulars on new axles are great. I'm trying to...

Other gears are fine, I drove back about ten miles. Just no reverse.

I have to bed down for the night, knackered after cutting all day. But all theories welcome, will check in in the morning. Thanks. Ps any exploded diagrams/photos etc of what I need to look at welcome. Ive trawled the net, but mostly its all about completely stripping gearboxes in nice well...