...eard somewhere you must read 4.5A from the in tank pump, or it is defective (mine reads 1.01A, but car stills running fine, although a bit lazy and a bit lack of power)

...i would go to a RR Sport Supercharged... Could be the fuel pump in the tank? Thought might be the injection pump....mine should be overhauled...as well as the injectors

Hy Lee, You're absolutely right. Whent to check the plugs in my dse, the front one is blue, the rear one green. Did you found the rear one? ...what fuelling issues you had?

Found this pic in the workshop manual. Believe these are the sensors we are talking about... The blue circle is the unplugged sensor in my car..(the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor) (my DSE: 1998, manual, w/o egr) About the unplugged one...the manual states that if the sensor is defective...

I have the blue one unplugged.....when is plugged is very hard to start the car when hot. (the blue one is almost under the electronic injector right? and the brown one near the injection pump? this one seems to have some sort of by-pass...) Regards Joao

About bleeding air locks, this aplies to DSE's? How do you do it? And the sniff test, how can i do it? I have just done a trip about 750miles (average speed 65miles/h) and i suspect the car is overpressuring (temp gauge at midle, everything looks fine), at the end of the trip when i removed...

My engine was tested, retested, re-retested, just the head, then the block, then block and head assembled and no leaking issues were found... Now my P38 is running nice and smooth because an original head gasket and original bolts.... I think my mechanic is good at the old ones (classic...

Hi, Found this thread (Replacing fuel temp sensor, tutorial - TDIClub Forums) in other forum. Can this be a solution for our injection pumps - hot starting issues? Has anyone tried this before? Messing with the injection pump seems to be a little bit trickier... Regards Joao

Sir Ben (sorry for the "bean"), Very good tips you gave!! Just before the rad blew up, my mechanic took the car for a road test and temp gauge barely moved far from the blue zone - no overheating from here. Also, the engine runs very well...like yours, no loss of power or perfomance. Like...

Sir Bean, at this time, i really hope its the head.... (my biggest fear is if its from a crack in the block...) ....or just a bad air drain from the cooling system......but..this wouldt blow a rad, would it?

............help................................... ........anyone?....................someone?......................... ..before my wallet gets empty....before i drive insane...before my girlfriend leaves me..

After my mechanic re-assembled the engine and all the LR procedures have been carefully followed (bolt torque, re-bolt after engine run idle for some time, no signs of overpressure..) and all the rest, everything ran smooth.... well, he went for a road test and after 5min...the radiator top...

Yep, i am well aware of that, thanks sidyal!! All the bolts will be replaced. Engine is now being assembled, hope this ends whith the overheating. Just read in other thread here (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/still-overheating-any-suggestions-100594.html) ....if my rangie still overheats...

Hi Will, The head has about 4months (came from a BMW 525TDS) in my car. First time was pneumatic tested and skimmed.... Now was re-tested and was ok...(like the head gasket, no signs of wear) I konw its not wealthy for the head to be re-bolted many times (huge torque in the bolts), but i...

...block has been pneumatic tested...looks just fine, no damage. Face block had to be skimmed (was slightly warped ..... sorry, dont know the correct term..) wich could get air into the cooling system from the combustion chambers, and make the water buble in the expantion tank and then rise...

Hi Will, The water way has been or hidro or pneumatic tested....not sure. Also the face doesnt show any crack. My mechanic will strip the block and by what he told me, the block will be air pressurized and submerged in water. If theres any crack in the cylinder wall (compression to water)...

Everything seems to be ok.... head cylinder (tested and is ok). Head gasket (no signs of leackege), water pump, thermostat, viscous and radiator also ok (all of these were new). All the hoses were new.. Now the block will be stripped and tested..... (sorry Adal for overtaking your thread...

My RR is at the shop... My mechanic will check the rad and remove the head and test it. Just hope is not the engine block..... By the way, what does the ETC sensor do? jton, the engine gets realy hot...i dont believe is an electrical issue..

Hi Adal, Did you managed to fix your DSE? Mine has just the same symptoms. Everything in the cooling system is new (water-pump, thermostat, viscous, radiator, head gasket, hoses..even the cylinder head -propely skimmed)... He keeps getting hot....dont know what to do further more.. The...